IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

A HAND-BOOK OF 

Gloucester, Mass., and Its Immediate Vicinity. 



FOR THE 



-Wbselman Tourist and tb@ Sumnier Visitor, 

/ 
JOHN S. WEBBKR, JR., 

B. Bl. C, CONSUL C. T. C. 



WITH ELEVEN ILLUSTRATIONS. 



" 1 have always counted a run to Gloucester as one of the finest in New England, and 
never omit it when in the vicinity of Salem, if my time will allow."— C. A. Hazlett. 



GLOUCESTER, MASS.: ^^^ /SyO "(^\^^ 

PRINTED AT THE CAPE ANN ADVERTISER OFFfCE, * ' ^AiiH\^^ 



18S5. 






Copyright 1SS5, 
By John S. Webber. Jr. 



TO 

H. W. GRIMES, ESQ^, 
consul c. t. c, 
Gloucester, Gloucester County, England, 
this little volume is most respectfully dedicated 

BY 

JOHN S. WEBBER, JR., 

CONSUL C. T. C, 

Gloucester, Massachusetts, U. S. A. 



A Word at the Start. 



After months of labor -hard labor, too, for one unaccustomed to the 
work — I am permitted to send forth the present little manual on Glouc- 
ester, and its immediate vicinity. The material here given is designed 
for the especial use of the touring wheelman and the summer visitor, 
and I have endeavored to describe — in a way perhaps peculiar — all the 
most important sights and places of interest to be found upon this 
rock-bound territory of Cape Ann. 

Much of the historical matter in Part I has been written up from 
suggestions found in various publications, to wit: History of Glouc- 
ester, History of Essex County, Fisherman's Memorial and Record 
Book, etc., to the authors of which I desire to tender my grateful 
acknowledgments; the files of the Cape Ann Advertiser and Cape 
Ann Bulletin have also been occasionally^ referred to for dates and 
other valuable items. 

I am not unmindful of the many kind favors extended by various 
friends, and would therefore thank especially Mr. J. J. Gilligan of Bos- 
ton, C. A. Hazlett, Esq., of Portsmouth, N. H., Mr. H. Frank Sanford 
of Gloucester, Mr. George Holliday of the Masconomo Hotel, Mrs. E. 
S. Robinson of the Pigeon Cove House, Mr. George L. Smith of the 
Gloucester Hotel, Mr. William P. Davis of the Pavilion Hotel, and 
all others who have in any way aided me in the preparation of the 
present volume. 

The beautiful pictures that adorn the following pages (with the ex- 
ception of the four hotel cuts) were made expressly for the work from 
photographs, by the Photo. Electro. Eng. Co., 20 Cliff street, New 
York, and those of our friends who are familiar with the locations will 
readily recognize the correctness of the views. 

J. S. W., Jr. 

Gloucester, Mass., July, 18S5. 



gOIJTEI^TS, 



Page. 

A Word at the Start, 3 

PART I. 

Concerning Gloucester, - - - - 5 

PART II. 

I. Bicycle Rambles on Eastern Point, - - 26 

II. Saunterings at Magnolia, - - - 32 

III. By Wheel to Chebacco Pond, - - - 41 

IV. A Wheel Around Cape Ann, - - 50 
V. Coffin's Beach, - - - - - 66 

VI. Manchester-by-the Sea, - - - 71 
PART III. 

I. Miscellaneous, - - - - - 78 

II. A Wheel Run in '78, - - - 83 

III. Wheelmen Visitors in Past Years, - - 88 



LIST OP ILLU2T]^ftTI0I]S, 



I. Gloucester Hotel, 

II. Pavilion Beach, 

III. View from Bellevue, 

IV. Bass Rock House, 

V. View on 'Squam River, 
VI. , Pigeon Cove House, - 

VII. Folly Cove, 

VIII. Davis' Neck, from Gen. Butler's, 
IX. Willow Road, Riverdale, 

X. Coffin's Beach, 

XI. Pavilion Hotel, 



Frontispiece. 


Opposite 


page 20 


u 


" 24 


a 


" 29 


u 


" 45 


u 


" 53 


a 


" 58 


(( 


" 60 


- " 


" 64 


a 


" 68 


a 


" 78 



PA RT I. 



SOI^gE^IJIIJS (2L0UgB2TE]^, 



Any map of Massachusetts will show plainly where Cape Ann 
is. Away up in the most northeast corner you will easily find 
this prominent headland jutting out into the sea, the waters of 
Massachusetts Bay washing its southern shore, those of Ipswich 
Bay its northern, and the waves of the broad Atlantic its eastern, 
while the towns of Essex and Manchester form its western 
boundary. 

The town of Gloucester comprised originally the entire penin- 
sula of Cape Ann, but in 1840 the section on its eastern extrem- 
ity known as " Sandy Bay," with a population of nearly twenty- 
seven hundred souls, was set off by an act of the Legislature 
under the name of Rockport, and became a separate town. 

Cape Ann extends in an easterly direction from the main 
land about nine miles, and in width varies from three and one- 
half miles to nearly six. An arm of the sea, known as Annis- 
quam River (or, as more frequently spoken, 'Squam River), 
extending from Ipswich Bay on the north to the harbor of 
Gloucester on the south, completely cuts the section into two 



6 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN. 

nearly equal parts, with the business partion of the city on the 
eastern side. 

Gloucester harbor, formed by the projection of a narrow strip 
of land in a southwesterly direction, is well known as one of the 
finest, and in many respects most convenient, on the northeast 
coast, affording, as it does, within its friendly embrace, safe 
anchorage and shelter for a large fleet. In the months of Sep- 
tember and October, on a dusky night, the spectacle is most 
magnificent, when perhaps half a thousand sail of vessels are 
riding calmly at anchor with lights sparkling brightly from their 
positions on board. 

Annisquam harbor, on the north, is very conveniently situ- 
ated, but a bar across its entrance makes it difficult of access for 
other than the small fishing and pleasure craft belonging in the 
immediate vicinity. 

About the year 1626 the first settlement was made at Glouces- 
ter, which in 1639 ^^^ incorporated as a "fishing plantation," 
and three years after became a town. In the year 1873 the 
town, with about sixteen thousand inhabitants, was granted its 
city charter. The name " Gloucester " was probably taken from 
the English town of that name, from which many of our earlier 
settlers came. 

As a matter of record (for I am confident the article has never 
before appeared in type) I append a complete copy of the orig- 
inal document the town government received from the Indian, 
Samuel English, in the year 1700, whereby that personage relin- 
quished to the inhabitants all right or title he then had in the 
territory now occupied by the city of Gloucester and the town 
of Rockport : 

To ALL People to Whom these Presents shall come Samuel 
English an Indian, the Grandson and Rightfull heir of Masshanomett 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 7 

the Sacamore of Agawam, Sendeth Greeting. Know jee that I the 
said Samuel English Sufficient reasons moving me thereunto but espe- 
cially for ye full and just summe of seven pounds of Current monev 
of New England truly paid unto me by Lieut. William Stevens and 
Ensign Joseph Allen a Committee or agents for ye towne of Glosster 
in the County of Essex in New England, wherewith I ye said Samuel 
English doo hereby acknowledge myself fully satisfied paid and content 
forever and thereof, and of every part thereof, doo hereby for me, my 
heirs executors and administrators forever acquit release and discharge 
them the said Committee their heirs executors & administrators for- 
ever. Have given granted bargained sold and confined and doo by 
these presents for myself heirs executors & administrators for ever 
grant Bargain Sell and Confine forever unto them the said William 
Stevens & Joseph Allen in their behalfe & for use and property- of said 
Towne of Glosster them their heirs executors administrators and as- 
signs forever a Certaine Tract of land knowne by ye name of ye Town- 
ship of Glosster in the County aforesaid in New England Containing 
by estimation Ten thousand acres, be the Contents thereof more or 
less as it is abutted and bounded north northwest by Ipswich and West 
southwest by ye Towne of Manchester according as ye Lines hath been 
already settled & by ye salt sea on all other parts with all ye Islands 
thereto belonging according to ye grant of ye General Court to said 
Towne. Together wdth all ye Lands, Soyles, waters, rivers, streams 
havens, ports Fishing huntings Wood Timber Stones grass feed and 
all ye rights profits priviledges and appurtenances belonging to ye 
same or any part thereof. To Have and To Hold to them ye said 
William Stevens & Joseph Allen and ye said Towne of Glosster them 
their heirs executors administrators and assigns in quiet & peaceabe 
possession for ever without the Least lett, hindrance or molestation 
whatsoever & further I the said Samuel English doo hereby promise 
covenant and grant to & with ye abovesaid William Stevens and Joseph 
Allen that at & untill the ensealing and delivery of these presents I had 
good rightfuU power and Lawfull authority to give grant convey and 
confirm the said premises and every part thereof with all the appurte- 
nances as abovesaid, it Naturally decending to me from my predeces- 
sor as above said and doo hereb\^ bind mvselfs heirs, executors admin- 



8 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 

istrators and assigns Forever to defend ye said William Stevens and 
Joseph Allen and the said Towne of Glosster, Them Their heirs exec- 
utors administrators and assigns for ever from all Indian right and 
Title «& from The lawfull claims of all persons whatsoever to je above- 
said premises. In witness whereof I ye abovesaid Samuel English doo 
hereunto set my hand & seal this fourteenth day of January seventeen 
hundred & in ye 12 yeare of his Magistys reighn. 

SAMUEL >< ENGLISH [Seal.] 

Signed Sealed & Delivered in presence of us 

Abraham Perkins \ 
Joseph ffoster \ 
JoNA Fairbanks j 

The within mentioned Samuel English personally appearing before 
me the subscriber one of ye Members of his Mag^y counsell for the 
Pi-ovince of j'e Mass. Bay & Justice of peace in the same, acknowledged 
thee within written Instrument to be his free act and deed. 

JOHN APPLETON. 

EARLY SCHOOLS. 

Gloucester began the erection of suitable buildings for educa- 
tional purposes in the year 1708, when the first school house in 
town of which there is any record was built on the easterly side 
of " Meeting House Green," so called, in the Town Parish. 
The dimensions were — 24 feet in length, 16 feet in width and 6 
feet in stud. The cost was 24;^ 15s. A grant of 300^ was made 
in the year 1793 for the building of a grammar school house, at 
the suggestion of Rev. Eli Forbes. This building stood on what 
is now Granite street, and was a square two story edifice with 
belfry and bell. For sixty years the building remained in this 
locality, and was then removed to Beacon street, and is now 
used as a primary school. Nearly one-fifth of the entire popula- 
tion of Gloucester are school children : The High school en- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 9 

rolls over 159 names, the Grammar 2200, and the Mixed and 
Primary about 1800, and her schools for the last ten years have 
cost the city nearly $550,000. 

The banking business of Gloucester is well represented in the 
four National and one Savings institutions, and commenced as 
long ago as the year 1795, when the first meeting called for the 
purpose of establishing some sort of banking institution in town 
was held at the insurance office of Fitz & Ignatius Sargent — a 
small building standing on the corner of what are now Duncan 
and Main streets. At this meeting a committee consisting of 
Daniel Rogers, David Plumer, John Somes, William Pearson 
and Col. William Pearce, was appointed to consider the expedi- 
ency of such an institution and to make report. The report was 
rendered at a meeting held the first day of January in 1796, and 
was in favor of the establishing of a bank of $40,000 capital, 
with no stockholder less than $100 or more than $4,000. This 
was the first banking institution in town, and was called the 
"Gloucester Bank," and John Somes was its first president. 
The committee appointed January 12, 1796, " to look for a suit- 
able place to keep a bank," spent a long time in seeking a con- 
venient building, without success, and then decided to purchase 
the vacant lot in front of Capt. Babson's dwelling house and 
build their own edifice. The building erected was a one-story 
wooden affair, with an entrance on the westerly side through 
a small yard leading from the street. The bank occupied the 
room nearest the street, and the board of directors the one in 
the rear. The vault of the new institution was of stone and sit- 
uated under the banking room in a place excavated for the pur- 
pose, and was reached by a stairway, to which access was had 
through a heavy trap-door, which was raised by a tackle attached 
to the ceiling. In these new quarters the bank did business for 



lO 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 



nearly thirty-five years and then removed to their new stone 
building opposite the foot of Short street, on what is now Main 
street, and in this edifice continued business for forty years. 
The business center of the town then changing to the vicinity 
of the Custom House caused the bank in the year 187 1 to erect 
the brick structure now occupied by it on the corner of Main 
and Duncan streets. 

THE FIRST SCHOONER. 

It was at Gloucester that the name " schooner," which we 
now hear so frequently spoken, had its origin, as appears by 
current traditions of the town. Certain it is that the word was 
unknown previous to the year 17 13 — in fact, little or nothing is 
known about the vessels used on the New England coast previ- 
ous to that time. For the benefit of those to whom the story 
has not been told I will append it here, according to Mr. Babson, 
the historian of the town : "It seems that Capt. Andrew Rob- 
inson, a citizen of the town, and famous for his ingenuity, built 
a vessel in the year 17 13 and masted and rigged it in a peculiar 
manner. When the vessel was launched, and as she was sliding 
off the stocks, a bystander cried out, ' How she scoons ! ' and 
Capt. Robinson instantly remarked, ' A schooner let her be.' 
Thus was the new name created in our marine vocabulary. The 
craft was rigged nearly the same as are our vessels of to-day, 
and the name of 'schooner' has always clung to them from the 
date mentioned." 

The chief business of Gloucester is, and always was, as any 
one must by this time be well aware, that of fishing. This busi- 
ness, now so important as to place the city first in rank in the 
world, employs over six hundred vessels, and is actively pursued 
at all seasons of the year. The total product in value of the 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN ii 

fisheries for the year 1828 was $250,000; for 1847 about $600,- 
000; and for 1883 about $4,500,000. These figures are based 
on careful estimates founded mostly on exact returns. Nearly 
all our fishermen who bring this large amount of wealth into port 
are of foreign birth, and a large majority of them have only 
a temporary home in our city, and considering the temptations 
to which, more than men of other employments, they are ex- 
posed, it may be truly said that in manners and morals they will 
well stand a comparison with any other class of society. For one 
great quality they are pre-eminently conspicuous — for what but 
the stoutest heart could brave the dangers and hardships of an 
employment, in which during the last twenty-five years over seven- 
tee?i hundred men have passed through appalling scenes of storm 
and sea and shipwreck to a watery grave ! 

Let me append the record of the last ten years of the disas- 
ters in the Gloucester fisheries, as gleaned from the columns 
of the Cape A?m Advertiser, the best authority on matters apper- 
taining to this industry of fishing : 



YEAR. 


VESSELS. 


TONNAGE. 


VALUE. 


INSURANCE. 


LrvT:s. 


1875 


16 


1,050.91 


^96,000 


$81,326 


123 


1876 


27 


1,075.46 


150,000 


116,222 


212 


1877 


8 


722.33 


45,000 


22,000 


39 


1878 


13 


907.57 


64,794 


49,067 


56 


1879 


29 


1,893.36 


111,056 


90,582 


249 


1880 


7 


360.44 


21,000 


15,972 


52 


1881 


8 


511.51 


31,000 


20,493 


56 


1882 


12 


976.74 


79,700 


54,460 


115 


1883 


17 


1,119.27 


94,400 


76.972 


209 


1884 


16 
153 


1,104.46 
9,722.05 


87,100 


63,100 
$590,194 


131 


Total, 


$780,050 


1242 


Average, 


15 


972.20 


$78,005 


$59,019 


124 



For more particular information concerning the fisheries and 



12 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

the terrible dangers attending them, the reader is referred to the 
valuable works of George H. Procter, Esq., entitled, "The Fish- 
ermen's Memorial and Record Book," and " The Fishermen's 
Own Book," both published by Procter Brothers, of this city. 

THE SOUTHERN MACKEREL SEINERS. 

I would like to say a few words concerning the business of 
the Southern mackerel seiners — a business that has especially 
grown to considerable extent during the last few years. 

Every Spring witnesses the fitting out and sailing of a large 
fleet of Gloucester vessels for the southern waters, sometimes 
the trip extending as far south as the Carolina capes. These 
vessels market their trips, first at the Philadelphia and New 
York markets, and late in the season at Boston and this city. 
Considerable rivalry on the part of half a dozen of our " crack " 
skippers, as to which would land the first trip, has made the 
business of an early departure and quick return a prominent 
feature of the season's work. 

The business of seining fish around a vessel is one so little 
understood by the uninitiated, that perhaps it may be of interest 
lo quote a writer in the Cape Aim Bulletin of a recent date : 

" It is a well known fact that, at times, for days, and some- 
times weeks, no mackerel are to be seen ' schooling ' at the 
surface of the water, although that they are present on the fish- 
ing ground can be easily proven by heaving a vessel to and 
'throwing bait ' for a short time, when the fish willjise from the 
depths and remain alongside of the vessel as long as the opera- 
tion of feeding is continued. Again, when making their passage, 
in coming north or in returning to their winter haunts, the fish 
are sometimes very difficult to catch, even though swimming near 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 13 

the surface of the sea, for the reason that they generally travel 
at a rapid rate ; and by scattering bait across their line of travel 
and heaving the vessel to, they can be stopped, though some- 
times but for a few moments. At such times seiners take care 
to keep the seine boat in readiness on the port side of the ves- 
sel (the leeward side when hove to), hauled up snug to the ves- 
sel, that no delay may be had if mackerel rise in sufficient quan- 
tities to warrant the setting of the seine. It requires but a word 
from the master, if they do rise, when away go the men into the 
boat, followed by the skipper, a spare hand or the cook taking 
the place at the bait box and continuing to throw the 'food for 
the fishes.' The boat is in the meanwhile dropped around on 
the starboard quarter, and when about twenty fathoms off, over- 
board goes the end of the seine with buoy attached, which is 
picked up and held by two men in the seine dory, and the boat 
is pulled to leeward at right angles with the vessel, as fast as the 
seine can be got out, as much depends on getting to leeward as 
far as possible, as the vessel is constantly changing her position, 
driven by wind and wave. When the middle of the seine is 
reached (usually marked by a double canvas-covered cork) the 
boat is turned short around and all possible speed made up 
to and across the vessel's bow, and, with another sharp turn, 
straight to the dory. As soon as the operation of ' pursing,' or 
drawing the bottom of the seine together, is commenced, the 
man in charge of the vessel quickly scatters several buckets of 
bait into the water, in order to keep the unsuspecting victims 
of man's wants busy, then springs to the fore-sheet and hauls it 
in ; up goes the jib ; the wheel, which has been hard down, is 
righted, the vessel pays off, and gathering headway, is soon 
speeding over the cork-ropes out of the centre of the seine, the 
ropes and seine sinking and going beneath the vessel at right 



14 IN AND AROUND C4PE ANN 

angles to the keel, leaving the mackerel behind. If the opera- 
tion of getting headway on the vessel is not skilfully done and 
she be allowed to drift broadside to the ropes, there is danger 
of catching the seine, and then good-bye to the fish, for that 
time at least, with a prospect of mending to be done to repair 
damages. When once outside of the seine the man in charge 
of the vessel has only to keep clear of the boat and sail at his 
own sweet will and pleasure until the fish are ' dried up ' (all the 
slack twine being in the boat and the fish in close quarters in 
the bunt), which fact is learned by observing an oar upheld by 
some one on board the boat. Perhaps at the last moment, before 
the closing of the seine, the fish have escaped, when, with sore 
hands and tired body, we, remembering the old adage, prepare 
to ' try, try, try again,' or mayhaps, as I have seen the case, 
from one barrel to over two hundred of the shining beauties are 
secured and are soon tumbling over the rail from the big dip 
net, and the hearts of the fisher lads are made glad, even though 
the prospect of an all night and day job at dressing and salting 
be in prospect." 

In the early days the boats engaged in the shore fishery occa- 
sionally marketed a few barrels of fresh mackerel at Boston, but 
no particular notice was taken at that time as to the possible 
prospective value of this fishery until a few years later, in 182 1, 
when the adjacent bay became the schooling ground for large 
numbers of them. The fishermen then built especial vessels, 
and devoted considerable time to the taking of this particular 
fish. Every Summer was the business pursued, and the success 
was far beyond their expectations ; in a couple of years the ves- 
sels of the Gloucester fleet marketed over 120,000 barrels. The 
boats were known by the name of "jiggers," and carried from 
six to eight men. In 1825 one of these jiggers took over 1300 
barrels. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 15 

The growth of Cape Ann may be attributed to a considerable 
extent to the influence of her newspapers, the earliest of which, 
the Gloucester Telegraph, appeared in January, 1827, with W. E. 
P. Rogers as its publisher, and was a sheet 28x20 inches, with 
twenty columns of reading matter. In 1842 Mr. John S. E. 
Rogers began the publication of the Cape Anti Light, and also 
assumed control of the Telegraph, the former appearing once and 
the latter twice a week. In 1848 Mr. John J. Piper began the 
issuing of the Gloucester News, which Mr. Rogers afterwards 
purchased and merged into the T'elegraph. In 1874 the Tele- 
graph came into the hands of Mr. M. V. B. Perley, and was 
conducted by him until 1876, when the publication ceased. In 
1877 its successor was established by Messrs. Woodbury, Low 
& Co., under the title, Cape Ann Bulletin, which paper, now 
in the hands of Messrs. Haskell & Tresilian, is still alive and 
wide-awake. 

In the month of August, 1884, the publication of the Cape 
Ann Eve7iing Breeze was begun at the Bulletin office, which has 
since enjoyed a prosperous career, as has also the Gloucester 
Daily News, a publication introduced about a couple of months 
previous to the appearance of the Breeze, by Messrs. F. A. Wig- 
gin & Co. 

In July, 1853, Messrs. Francis & George H. Procter started 
a gratuitous monthly, 28x22 inches, headed, The Able Sheet ; in 
January, 1854, its size was enlarged to 22x34 inches, and until 
the year 1855 was printed at the Telegraph office. In January, 
1855, the proprietors changed the name to the Gloucester Adver- 
tiser, and issued the paper from their own establishment. In 
July, 1857, its publication twice a month began, and its sub- 
scription price was 75 cents per year. In December of the same 
year the name was changed to the Cape Ann Advertiser, and it 



1 6 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

made its appearance fortnightly. In 1858 it was made a weekly, 
and their firm name changed to Procter Brothers. The paper 
was enlarged in 1865 to 27x42 inches, and in 1882 assmned its 
present size, 29x42 inches. Characterized by liveliness, energy 
and determination to excel, the sheet is justly entitled to the 
liberal patronage bestowed upon it by its five thousand sub- 
scribers. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The manufactures of Gloucester cannot be said to be espe- 
cially prominent, and such as the city does enjoy are naturally 
closely allied to her main business. The recently organized 
Net and Twine Company, at its place of business near the rail- 
road station, employs a large force of workmen, and makes the 
manufacture of seines, twines, &c., a specialty. 

The Cape Ann Anchor Works is another large concern, situ- 
ated near the railroad bridge on 'Squam river, employing night 
and day gangs of men the year round, the particular work of 
this company being the manufacture of anchors, car axles and 
other heavy iron work. 

The large building on the opposite side of the railroad and 
also upon the river bank, is the headquarters of the Gloucester 
Fish Drying Company, organized in 1884. 

The Russia Cement Company, on Essex avenue, and the 
Gloucester Isinglass and Glue Company, on Eastern avenue, 
enjoy a good business in their line of fish glues and cements. 

Other prominent business establishments are those of Lewis 
H. Merchant, near the Net and Twine Company's building, in 
the manufacture of fish boxes, &c.; Higgins & Gifford, boat 
builders, at the "head of the harbor"; A. W. Dodd & Co.. cod 
liver, oil, &c.; and the machine shop of Nathan Richardson on 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 17 

Washington street, where the bicycUst will find competent work- 
men to repair any slight damage to his wheel. 

The wharves of the fishing firms will doubtless claim the first 
attention of the stranger guest, and a visit to tiie scene of the 
landing of a trip of fish is often of much interest to the beholder 
for the first time. The Atlantic Halibut Co.'s buildings on the 
way leading from Duncan street, and those of the New England 
Fish Co., on Dodd's wharf, and also the firm of Stockbridge & 
Co., on Parmenter, Rice & Co.'s wharf, are especial points of 
interest worthy a visit, the discharging of a trip of fresh halibut 
at either of these places is a sight of much enjoyment to the 
visitor, and should not be missed. 

The wharves of Messrs. Cunningham & Thompson, John Pew 
& Son, Parmenter, Rice & Co., and Stanwood & Co., are among 
the most important in the business of boxing and putting up 
" boneless codfish" for table use. These firms employ a large 
force of male help and ship immense quantities of this particular 
fish in this form, and the operation of skinning and cutting is 
one of keen interest to the sightseer. This industry, which was 
started but a few years ago, has grown to such proportions that 
at the present time nine-tenths of all the dry fish shipped from 
this city is prepared in this way, and it is estimated that 25,000,- 
000 pounds of boneless fish are sold each year, giving employ- 
ment to three hundred laborers all the year 'round, with a pay- 
roll amounting to something like an hundred thousand dollars 
per annum. In the production of this vast amount of market- 
able goods some 5000 tons of waste material remain to be dis- 
posed of in some way. Formerly this refuse was given to any 
one who would cart it away, and much of it was spread upon 
the land to be ploughed under in the spring and to pollute the 
air of summer with its odor of decay ; but gradually the demand 



1 8 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN. 

for it increased, as it was found to be an excellent ingredient in 
the manufacture of guano, and to-day there is a ready market 
for every bit of this material.* 

In the " Fishermen's Own Book" the Messrs. Procter give a 
particularly interesting sketch on page 133 relating to the chief 
industry of this city, which, with their kind permission, appears 
below : 

" It is a lively scene, down at some of our wharves in the 
breezy days of midwinter, to witness one or more of the Bankers 
or Georgesmen round the Point and come gayly up the harbor. 
Sometimes they are minus a spar or sail and are all battered or 
iced up, the crew having had a hard time freeing the bows and 
rigging from the frozen spray, which in a bitter cold day hard- 
ens as soon as it strikes, and piles itself up on the overburdened 
craft with amazing quickness. Then the safety of the vessel 
and her management through the cold, seething waters, render 
it an imperative necessity that the ice be dislodged, and a cold, 
cheerless task it is which the fisherman has forced upon him. 
Short spells of this ice pounding, with the thermometer below 
zero, is all that men can endure, and they are frequently relieved, 
all hands taking their turn and making the best of an unwelcome 
duty. But snug in the harbor, anchor down, sails furled, pipes 
lighted, with the catch sold, the crew have a little resting spell. 
Then the vessel is hauled alongside the wharf of some of the 
fresh fish buyers, the hatches opened, and out from the depths 
below are hoisted the mammoth halibut, direct from the ice 
house, where they are kept as sweet and fresh as when first 
caught. Up they come in pairs, and sometimes in triplets, ac- 
cording to their size, and oftentimes a monster weighing two 



'Cape Ann Bulletin, somewhat cliaiiged. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 19 

hundred pounds and upwards will show his nose above deck and 
be slowly landed on the wharf. Visions of nice fried or baked 
halibut tickle the palate, as the fish are thus landed. After 
their heads are taken off and the fish thoroughly cleansed and 
packed in boxes, the last thing done, ere they are nailed up, is 
to fill their napes with crushed ice, which insures their preserva- 
tion, and off they are shipped by rail or steamer to Boston, New 
York, Philadelphia, Lowell and other large cities, where they 
find ready sales. The codfish are discharged mostly at the 
wharves of the vessel owners, where they are decapitated and 
then salted in butts, and when sufficiently salt are transferred 
to the flakes for a given time and dried. Then they find their 
way, the most of them, in these days, to the skinning lofts, where 
nimble fingers divest them of skin and bones, and the solid 
pieces of fish, handsome as can be, are packed in boxes from 
ten to two hundred pounds each, which find their way from the 
warehouses of our enterprising fish producers to all sections of 
this country. The trade is simply immense, and constantly on 
the increase, for the praise of the Gloucester boneless cod is 
abroad in the land, and dealers and consumers demand it from 
headquarters, direct from first hands. 

Who would have thought, from the small beginning in the 
putting up of boneless codfish, of only a few years since, that 
such large results would follow 1 And now that fish is packed 
in such clean, attractive packages, the attention of consumers is 
drawn toward it. The old objection to stripping and cleaning, 
and purchasing so much waste, is heard no more. The clean 
fish, ready for a salt fish dinner or fish balls, is now for sale by 
all first-class grocers in the country, and the Gloucester brands, 
of which there are several hundred, each large purchaser having 
his private brands, are printed indelibly on the boxes. Some of 



20 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

these brands are very handsome and add much to the attract- 
iveness of the packages. 

The first man, Mr. George H. Smith, we think it was, who put 
up fish in this way, never dreamed that this act of his would 
revolutionize the entire fish trade, but so it has proved ! The 
old fish dealers, conservative, as they had a right to be, saw not 
the cloud which was rising, but kept in the old channels of ship- 
ping whole fish, until their customers demanded of them the 
boneless fish in boxes. And then they gave way to the inevita- 
ble. There was no help for it. Either adopt the new mode or 
lose the business altogether. And they entered into the busi- 
ness with the same energy which characterized their other trans- 
actions, and we have to-day, here in old Gloucester, a business 
which is now only in its infancy, a business which will keep the 
fleet busy, which will take all the fish they can catch, at remu- 
nerative prices, a business which will keep Gloucester in the 
front as a fishing port and furnish occupation for her people. 

It's lively all through, from the time the vessel leaves the har- 
bor until she arrives on the ground, and from the catching of 
the fish to the dressing, then the salting and drying, boning and 
skinning, shipping, and finally the serving up of the toothsome 
dish on the table with drawn butter and ^gg sauce, or the good 
old fashioned pork scraps, with beets and potatoes." 

The sights around Gloucester, with the exception of those in 
the immediate vicinity of the wharves, as spoken of in the fore- 
going, are not particularly attractive, though our visiting bicy- 
cling friends may enjoy some of the more prominent of them, 
such as our public buildings, beaches, pleasant walks and drives, 
views of ocean scenery from the several high hill-tops, and a 
glance at the many natural curiosities to be found upon our 
Cape. 




Pavilion Bea:-h. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 



21 



On Dale avenue stands the beautiful City Hall, built in 1869 
on the site of a former one burned the year previous. Bicyclists 
and other visitors to our city will find much of interest within 
this public building. Mr. Arthur C. Millett, the ever courteous 
"gentleman in charge," will cheerfully show you over the house, 
including the grand picture from the tower windows — a picture 
well looked upon from this standpoint being unsurpassed by any 
other within the city's limits, including as it does the entire set- 
tlement and adjacent country, with a most magnificent stretch of 
ocean scenery and the twin lighthouses on Thacher's Island, 
seemingly so near at hand. City Clerk Somes, at his office in 
this building, will be happy to give wheelmen any information 
sought by them in his department. 

SAWYER FREE LIBRARY. 

At the corner of Dale avenue and Middle street, a few yards 
from the City Hall, is the spacious and beautiful " Sawyer Free 
Library" building. These attractive grounds were purchased by 
Samuel E. Sawyer, Esq., for the purpose of establishing a per- 
manent home for the library, in February of last year, of Mr. 
William A. Pew, for the sum of $20,000. The grounds of this 
noble mansion are extensive and well laid out, and Mr. Sawyer 
has spent large sums of money in fitting up the place for the 
purposes for which it is now used. The large rooms and stately 
halls are carpeted and elegantly furnished. The walls are 
adorned with over one hundred and fifty rare and valuable paint- 
ings and pictures, collected during Mr. Sawyer's visits to foreign 
cities and in this country. The generous donor has done every- 
thing that could be done to make the home of the library that 
bears his name convenient and beautiful. When the library was 
dedicated in July, 18^84, a large assembly of our best , citizens 



2 2 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

were present, together with several persons from abroad. Mr. 
Saw3'er then presented to the trustees the deed of the entire 
property, comprising nearly 30,000 square feet of land, and 
thereby made it a perpetual gift to the citizens of Gloucester. 
The building was erected in 1764, and is consequently over 120 
years old, though during that time it has been somewhat altered 
and improved by its several owners. Mr. Pew built the fine 
tower upon it and the verandas around the first story, and also 
the "porte cochere." He laid out the grounds with consider- 
able taste, and protected them with the fine walls of dressed 
granite and iron gateways. Mr. Sawyer's improvements have 
embellished this valuable estate in many respects, and to-day it 
is one of the finest sites within our city. The rooms are open 
daily, afternoon and evening (except Tuesdays), from 2 to 5 and 
7 to 9 — Thursdays, in evening only. The library owns about 
6500 volumes. 

St. Ann's church (Roman Catholic), of which the Rev. J. J. 
Healy is pastor, is a handsome and substantial structure, at the 
corner of Smith and Park streets. The edifice is of stone, from 
the Rockport Granite Co., is Gothic in architecture, and meas- 
ures one hundred and forty-two feet in length by eighty-three 
feet in width, with a spire one hundred and eighty-five feet in 
height. Within the church the beautifully frescoed walls and 
ceilings and the windows of stained glass present a very hand- 
some effect. The altar is Gothic, and composed of the richly 
looking marble of the far away East. The two beautiful paint- 
ings here — one on the left of the main altar, and the other on 
the wall opposite — were executed under the direction of Father 
Healy at the Pitti Palace in Florence, Italy, and are both among 
the finest works of art in this country. 

The rooms of the Cape Ann Scientific and Literary Associa- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 23 

tion, in the City National Bank building, on Main street, are 
well worthy a visit. The Society has a fine collection of rare 
specimens, most of which were brought in by our vessels from 
deep-sea fishing trips. 

The Young Men's Christian Association, in their new quar- 
ters on Main street (over Calef's dry goods store), have neatly 
fitted rooms, open at all times to the caller, and well supplied 
with reading matter for his entertainment. 

A walk along Main street, the principal thoroughfare of the 
city, will give the visitor an idea of the business section of the 
place. On this street are the banks, custom house and post 
office, and nearly all the first-class retail stores. 

The First Parish Church in Gloucester was built in 1738 on 
the same spot where the present Unitarian church now stands, 
on Middle street — adjacent to the Public Library grounds — and 
served the uses of the parish until 1828, when the present build- 
ing was erected. It was this church that caused so much trouble 
to the sloop-of-war " Falcon," in 1775, by the constant ringing 
of its bell, warning the inhabitants of the approach of this pirate 
Lindsay and his crew. It seems Lindsay came into our harbor 
in pursuit of a vessel laden with West India products, and the 
town refused to aid him in the capture of the craft, but kept 
the bell in the church belfry clanging constantly as if in defiance 
of the " Falcon's " demands, which so enraged the pirate cap- 
tain that he ordered his gunner to fire on " that d — n Presbyte- 
rian church," into the wall of which penetrated the ball now 
Suspended in the vestibule of the present building, and which 
will always be preserved as an interesting relic of the exciting 
scene enacted so many long years ago. 

A very pleasant locality for the stranger to visit is* Pavilion 
Beach, just off from Western avenue. Here one enjoys the 



24 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 

ever welcome cooling sea breeze, and delights to sit and watch 
the motley gathering. The bathing facilities are excellent, and 
boats for a pleasant row around the harbor are also within easy 
reach. 

" Stage Fort," just beyond the beach, on the Hough Farm 
property, is a grand place for pole-fishing and also a favorite 
spot for the rambling tourist. The old fortifications at this 
point were first built in 1812, and afterward reconstructed and 
occupied during the late rebellion. 

The surface of the Cape is very uneven, and one almost won- 
ders at the many huge, bold and precipitous ledges and rocky 
hills that confront him in every direction. Countless numbers 
of loose, shaggy masses of granite appear on either hand and 
are scattered thickly all over the entire territory. The highest 
elevation is in the West Parish, and is called Thompson's Moun- 
tain, being about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea level. 
From the top of this eminence the view on a clear day is superb. 
Bunker Hill Monument, Wachusett Mountain, and Monadnock 
can plainly be noticed, and with a glass you can catch a glimpse 
of old Agamenticus in the State of Maine. 

Beacon Pole Hill, a proniinent high elevation of land in the 
centre of the city, affords a fine view of the ocean and Annis- 
quam river, and by glass of Ipswich bay, Newburyport and 
Portsmouth ; in fact, a panoramic picture of unsurpassed beauty. 
This hill derives its name from the placing of a beacon, by the 
General Court, on its summit in the year 1776. 

The streets about town are generally in condition for bicycle 
riding, though the surface of most of them is either cut up by 
thick patches of the coarsest gravel or a layer of loosely lying 
stones; the rider, however, can pick his way along without any 
very serious trouble. Main street is paved with square blocks 




View from Bellevae, Shov/in 



Farm anl River. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 25 

of granite from Porter street to Hancock street, and from Chest- 
nut street to Union Hill. Western avenue, or more frequently 
spoken of as the "Cut," is a favorite street for bicycle riding; 
beyond the bridge take the deserted sidewalk on the left, and 
enjoy a very pleasant spin upon its easy running surface. 

Gloucester is divided into eight wards, and also contains sev- 
eral distinct villages, viz. : East Gloucester, in ward one, being 
the whole of the section known as Eastern Point ; Magnolia, in 
ward eight, a tract of seashore property in the southwestern cor- 
ner of the city ; Lanesville and Bay View, in ward seven, on the 
northeast coast ; Annisquam and Riverdale, in ward six, also in 
the northern section ; West Gloucester, in ward eight ; and the 
city proper, in wards two, three, four and five ; each of which 
we shall have occasion to speak of hereafter. 




PART II. 



I— BISYSLE J^ftEQBLES 01^ EftSTEl^I^ POIIJT, 



And now let's take our wheel for a short run along our har- 
bor road to East Gloucester, and note the many points of inter- 
est on the way. The start is made at the Gloucester Hotel — the 
headquarters of all visiting wheelmen in this city — at the corner 
of Main and Washington streets ; from thence the journey 
takes us over the rather uneven surface of Main street, going 
directly toward the east. In a few minutes we pass the Post 
Office on the left, and soon leave the noisy business portion of 
the street behind us, then, ere we are aware of it, we reach and 
quickly climb the slight eminence known as Union Hill. Once 
over the hill the road has a downward grade, with generally a 
very muddy surface, but on through this we propel our machine 
to the curve in the road at its junction with Eastern avenue. To 
the right we follow the now well trodden thoroughfare and again 
pedal quickly up the steep incline before us. Now the machine 
is well taken in hand, and with a sharp look-out ahead a pleasant 
little coast over the gently sloping road is cautiously indulged 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 



27 



in; down, down we spin, following the main road to the right 
over the well worn surface, and on, on we glide, past the dwell- 
ings of the rich and poor, directly through the business section 
of the settlement, until in a few minutes we reach the " Square," 
so called, at the village center. Passing the pump at this place 
on our left, we continue the ride over the mud-covered highway, 
enjoying highly the magnificent stretch of harbor scenery before 
us. A short distance, and the first dismount is now taken at 
the foot of a rough incline known as "Patch's Hill." At this 
place are a number of prominent Summer cottages, among them 
being the Delphine House, Craig Cottage and Brazier Cottage, 
each affording first-class accommodations, with facilities for 
bathing, fishing and boating in close proximity. Once again we 
bestride the slender wheel and continue on for half a dozen rods 
or more to the gate-way at the entrance to Niles' Beach, which 
marks the terminus of the public way. 

Our trip on the bicycle in this direction has finished, and so 
we sit awhile on the near-at-hand rocky blull and watch the 
merry throng of bathers in their sportive antics in the cooling 
sea, and inwardly wish that we were among them in the refresh- 
ing exercise. At our back, as we sit facing the sandy shore, is 
the little Summer abode of the well-known authoress, Elizabeth 
Stuart Phelps — the cottage in which she has already penned 
a number of interesting works, and where she passes the greater 
portion of the long, warm Summer days. Directly in front of us, 
at the further end of the beach, is the old mansion house of the 
Niles family, and still further on, at the extreme end of the 
rocky shore, is the tall stone column of Eastern Point Light. 

The walk across the beach and over the narrow winding tree- 
bordered path is well worth taking, and makes a pleasant ramble 
for the visiting tourist. At the lighthouse the visitor should 



28 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN. 

certainly pass a few moments — the tower is well worth careful 
inspection ; and the fishing, with long bamboo poles, from the 
rocks in this vicinity, affords considerable sport, being generally 
attended with satisfactory results. The old fort on the left, as 
you proceed along toward the Point, should not be missed — you 
enjoy a pleasant half hour by just sitting on the ruined parapet 
and gazing out over the bosom of the grand old sea. These 
fortifications were erected during the " late unpleasantness," 
mounted ten mammoth guns, and at one time was a military 
post of considerable importance, commanding as it did the en- 
trance to our harbor and a wide range of the adjacent bay. I 
believe, though, no occasion demanded its active services during 
the entire season of its occupancy. " Niles' Pond," a beautiful 
lake of fresh water covering nearly thirty acres, will also be 
noticed in this vicinity. 

Returning from the pleasant walk around the Niles property, 
we again secure our position on the pear-shaped seat, and once 
more resume our ride, this time following along the Point road, 
over which we recently came, for perhaps a quarter mile, then 
turning up the long incline leading to Mount Pleasant avenue 
at the right, near the entrance to which stand the two large ice- 
houses of Mr. Patch, we continue the trip over a fairly good 
surface and through a particularly interesting section of the town. 
On we go, flitting by the dwelling houses and green fields at 
a lively canter, passing the cemetery on our left, and finally reach 
a more open country. Now we drink eagerly of the deliciously 
cool sea breeze that comes over the farm lands from the deep 
blue waters around us, and for the first time notice, with a keen 
sense of enjoyment, the beautiful panoramic picture spread out 
before our eyes. We are loth to leave the vicinit}', so impressed 
are we with the magnificent stretch of land and ocean scenery ; 



fi7*' J^W'^ \ 



m. 





' i ^- 



V. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 29 

and while seriously contemplating a dismount to more fully 
enjoy the beauties of the place, a turn in the road now brings 
us into the avenue leading to the famous seashore resort known 
as the " Bass Rock " settlement. 

The Bass Rock House looms up before us almost directly 
after entering the thoroughfare, and the pleasing little coast we 
now take brings us directly to the hotel door. This hotel at 
Bass Rocks has recently been appointed by consul Burnham 
of Gloucester a league headquarters, and wheelmen will be cor- 
dially entertained at any time during the Summer. The house 
is one of the finest on the coast, being noted particularly for 
the excellence of its cuisine. Special rates to L. A. W. tourists. 

You catch a good idea of this charmingly situated seaside 
settlement in a ride along the road leading on past the hotel 
grounds toward the rocky coast below. The land hereabouts 
was originally owned in "cow rights" by different parties, and 
was long known by the name of " Harbor Pasture." About the 
year 1846 Mr. George H. Rogers, then a prominent merchant 
of Gloucester, began the purchase of these " cow rights " and 
soon acquired possession of the entire territor}^ comprising 
them. Mr. Rogers, it is believed, foresaw the advantages this 
beautiful tract of land offered as a future seashore resort, and 
at once began the improvement of the property by laying out 
avenues and roadways, cutting up the pasture into suitable 
building lots and otherwise greatly enhancing the value of the 
premises, expending vast sums of money in the work. Mr, Rog- 
ers died, however, before he realized any pecuniary benefit from 
the outlay, and the property was sold to Mr. Henry Souther, 
of South Boston, Mass., who in turn sold it to the Gloucester 
Land Company. This Company built a small hotel, sold several 
of the building lots, and then the property passed again into the 



30 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

hands of Mr. Souther, who is the present owner. This gen- 
tleman immediately began the work of bringing the property 
into market, and spent considerable money in further improving 
it ; aHarge addition was built to the small hotel, cottages were 
erected, new driveways constructed and the old ones rebuilt, and 
soon the section became noted as one of the most attractive on 
the coast. 

Among the many private residences here is that of Attorney- 
General Edgar J. Sherman, of Lawrence, whose house stands 
directly upon the rocky cliff overhanging Bass Rock itself, to 
which the building is securely bolted. The scene from the spa- 
cious veranda of this dwelling is a grand one — to the left is no- 
ticed the long white sandy strip of Little Good Harbor beach ; on 
our right the noble old ocean stretches out in its grandeur to the 
sky ; Salt island and Thacher's lie directly in front of us, the two 
tall lighthouses on the latter rising like grim sentinels above the 
vasty deep ; while seventy odd feet beneath us the " sad sea 
waves " dash with terrific force against the huge jagged rocks, 
sending a thick blanket of snow-white foam afar out over the 
restless surface of the little cove. 

To see Bass Rocks in its glory one must visit the place during 
a storm; then the waters roll up in mountainous waves, and 
breaking against the rocky shore send thousands of tons of 
spray completely over the dwelling on the cliff above. 

Another hotel, the Pebbly Beach House, stood at the extreme 
end of the shore road, and was quite a favorite establishment 
with the Summer tourist. This building was burned to the 
ground during the Spring of last year. 

In returning from this section of the town we begin the jour- 
ney at the Bass Rock Hotel, upon the road leading off at a right 
angle with the one over which we recently wheeled, and soon 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 31 

reach the descending slope of the curving way. Wheelmen 
should keep a sharp outlook from this point, for the meeting with 
a coming team or striking one of the numberless pieces of loose 
granite on the rough surface of the road might cause a serious 
accident to the rider and wheel. Once around the curve, our 
feet are taken from the pedals and down the gravelly descent 
we rapidly coast, enjoying the beautiful scenery on the right. 
The turn in- the road ahead is cautiously taken and we are soon 
at the bottom and safely wheeling over the narrow pathway by 
the side of Bass Rock avenue. Then the familiar East Main 
street, at the "head of the harbor," is taken, and over this thor- 
oughfare we rapidly wheel, and soon arrive at the Gloucester 
Hotel. 

This trip to Eastern Point is one affording much enjoyment, 
and if his time will allow, the visiting bicyclist should not fail 
to take it in. 



II— gftUI^TBl^IIJgS m rQMI]OLIS. 



One of the most attractive sections of Cape Ann is the bit 
of seashore property in the extreme southwest corner of the ter- 
ritory, known as Magnolia, a section which a few years ago was 
but a small fishing hamlet, now widely known as one of the lead- 
ing fashionable Summer resorts along the northeast coast. 

A bicycle trip to this picturesque settlement from Gloucester 
proper is one especially recommended to visiting wheelmen, as 
much of interest is to be seen in the ride over the four-mile 
route and in and around the famous little village on the rock- 
bound shore. 

The start begins with the wheelman at the league hotel, and 
is first along the familiar Western avenue, over the bridge, to 
the buildings of Cressy at the extreme end of the " Cut road," 
so called ; thence on up the long gravelly incline of Bray's hill, 
from the top of which a most enjoyable picture greets our eye, 
including the harbor of Gloucester, and an extensive range of the 
bay beyond. Now the pace is quickened, and with " legs over," 
the hill in front of us is rapidly coasted to the foot. 

From this point on, the surface of the road is covered with 
a thick layer of loose gravel, which, in connection with the sev- 
eral short steep inclines, makes the ride a trifle difficult for the 
bicyclist. With due exercise of care, however, the hills are all 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 



ZZ 



easily mounted, and the sandy surface, I am sure, will not par- 
ticularly annoy the practiced wheelman. 

The route now follows along the rocky shore; at our right 
looms up a massive tree covered cliff, on which stands the Sum- 
mer residence of the Dale family ; at our left, as we round the 
curving road, can be seen the breaking waves of the sea seventy 
odd feet below, as they dash up against the rock-bound coast. 
Soon we pass the elegant Summer home of Mr. Henry S. Hovey, 
a large finely built mansion in the Swiss style of architecture, 
standing quietly in the midst of the thick shadow of the woods ; 
and just beyond, at the foot of the hill, is the prettily situated 
English villa at Brookbank, belonging to Samuel E. Sawyer, 
Esq., a Summer resident, who recently donated the beautiful 
library building to his native town. 

At Sawyer's hill I would advise the wheelman to dismount 
from his machine, as the road here is badly cut up and likely to 
cause the rider a severe " header." If the hill must be ridden, 
let the wheelman take the " coast " at the top, with a firm hold 
upon the brake and a watchful eye on the curve ahead. 

Once over the hill, the rider continues along the county high- 
way with its fairly good surface of well trodden gravel, and soon 
the wheelman reaches a section of the route leading directly 
through the thick woods. The " Troy " house is quickly reached 
and passed, then the tree-bordered road brings us to the narrow 
causeway with its well hardened surface, over which we rapidly 
pedal and where, for the first time, we begin to really enjoy the 
beauties of the trip. The descending slope of Bennett's hill 
now appears in front of us, and down the smooth surface we 
spin with " legs over handles " — a charming little coast, by the 
way, that carries us nearly around the curve in the road ahead. 
We now find the way more level, and it requires but a few min- 



34 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

utes' ride ere we reach the sign-board on the left of the road 
that points out the way to the settlement on Magnolia Point. 

The ride over this Magnolia avenue, as it is called, is partic- 
ularly enjoyable. You catch a pleasing view of the little seaside 
village, with its attractive surroundings, and are not at all sur- 
prised at its boasted popularity as a Summer resort. The long 
gracefully curved Crescent beach lies off at our right, with its 
white sandy surface sloping gradually to the finely formed cove 
in front; at our left loom up the densely wooded hills; and as 
we proceed along the way we note the many beautiful private 
dwellings, hotels and boarding houses that go to make the set- 
tlement. 

Since attention was first attracted to it Magnolia has grown 
rapidly as a seaside resort. Scarce a dozen years ago the entire 
section hereabouts was covered with a thick growth of under- 
brush — no house stood upon the territory excepting the rough 
shanties of the fishermen down by the shore ; now the place is 
laid out in fine style — roads of from forty to fifty feet in width 
run from the main highway up towards the neighboring woods, 
and turning, lead down to the rock-bound shore and follow along 
its very edge. 

The work of laying out the settlement was begun by the late 
Daniel W. Fuller, of Swampscott, in the year 1867. and to that 
gentleman is the present prosperity of the Point section justly 
credited. Mr. Fuller with great taste cut up the property into 
suitable building lots, with convenient roadways connecting them. 
On several of the lots this pioneer erected trim-looking cottages, 
which found ready purchasers, and in 1877 built the hotel on 
Hesperus avenue, where it now stands. The hotel was enlarged 
during the spring of 1879 t>y the addition of a large " wing " on 
the eastern side, connected to the main house by a covered walk 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 35 

sixty feet in length. This house is among the best in the vicin- 
ity for visiting tourists— nearly every room in the building com- 
mands a most magnificent view of the bay and ocean. Other 
hotels at Magnolia are : Willow Cottage, on the main avenue, 
situated beneath the spreading branches of the mammoth trees 
that give to it its name ; Ocean-Side, on Lexington avenue, a 
charmingly situated edifice, with extensive piazzas, from which 
a wide range of ocean scenery is obtained ; Oak Grove House, 
on a way leading off from the main avenue and within the shel- 
ter of a thick grove of oaks ; the Crescent Beach Hotel, the tall 
two and-a-half-story French roof building noticed away off on 
the right as we ride over the road leading to the Point, which 
stands just over the Magnolia line, and was built some few years 
ago by Mr. Allen Knowlton. The wheelman will have no occa- 
sion to find fault with any hotel at Magnolia — all are first-class 
in every particular and well worthy the liberal patronage they 
each enjoy. 

Among the many notable private residences at Magnolia Point 
are those of Rev. H. W. Foote (of King's Chapel, Boston) ; Mr. 
James Perkins; J. G. Aborn; Alice D. Goodwin; Mr. Trow- 
bridge ; the " Upland Cottage " on Flume road ; Col. C. G. 
Thornton ; Charles A. Cummings ; Dr. F. G. Morrill ; and 
others. 

Many pleasant walks and rambles radiate from Magnolia. 
The dense woods back of the shore are threaded by innumerable 
carriage and foot paths, that off'er unusual attractions to the 
stroller. The wheelman should certainly enjoy the walk over the 
old path leading from Flume road and skirting the rocky shore ; 
the sight-seer soon reaches the "Flume," a channel in the cliff 
over one hundred and fifty feet in length by forty odd in width, 
with sides almost perpendicular in their descent. Just beyond 



36 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

is another natural gap, or ravine, in the high mainland cliff, into 
which at every tide the waters of the bay roll with a force most 
terrific. 

" Rafe's Chasm," also in the near vicinity, is still another 
remarkable illustration of the wonderful works of Dame Nature. 
Here is a deeply cut fissure in the solid ledge, extending from 
the sea inland a couple of hundred feet, by sixty feet in depth, 
with a width ranging from three to fifteen feet. At all times the 
sea rushes with tremendous force into this rock-bound channel, 
churning the water into a milk-white foam and sending the spray 
in torrents over the bluffs adjacent. Just after a storm is the 
best time to visit Rafe's Chasm — then the visitor becomes more 
forcibly impressed with the wondrous power of the mighty sea, 
for the "mad unchained elements" surge with such violence 
into the cavernous opening as to produce a noise, loud and con- 
tinual, akin almost to the thunder of the heavens. The iron 
cross on the cliff at this point was erected by the Summer peo- 
ple of Magnolia in memory of Miss Martha Marvin of Walton, 
N. Y., who was swept off the rocks below by the treacherous sea 
during the summer of 1879. 

Following the old path again, the rambler soon espies the 
famous reef of " Norman's Woe," a small island of solid rock 
situated a few hundred yards from the main land. This rock, 
tradition tells, was the scene of the wreck of the schooner "Hes- 
perus," the latter part of the seventeenth century, which has 
been immortalized in verse by the poet Longfellow : 

" It was the schooner Hesperus, 

That sailed the wintry sea ; 
And the skipper had taken his Httle daughter 

To bear him company. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 37 

Colder and louder blew the wind. 

A gale from the northeast; 
The snow fell hissing in the brine, 

And the billows frothed like veast. 



Down came the storm, and smote amain 

The vessel in its strength ; 
She shuddered and paused like a frighted steed. 

Then leaped her cable's length. 
* * * * * * * 

' O father ! I see a gleaming light ; 

Oh, say, what may it be? ' 
But the father answered never a word, 

A frozen corpse was he. 

Lashed to the helm, all stiff and stark, 

With his face turned to the skies. 
The lantern gleamed through the gleaming snow 

On his fixed and glassy eyes. 

And fast through the midnight dark and drear. 

Through the whistling sleet and snow. 
Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept 

Towards the reef of Xorman's Woe. 

The breakers were right beneath the bows, 

She drifted a dreary wreck. 
And a whooping billow swept the crew 

Like icicles from her deck. 

She struck where the white and fleecy waves 

Looked soft as carded wool. 
But the cruel rocks, they gored her side 

Like the horns of an angrv bull. 



At day-break, on the bleak sea-beach, 

A fisherman stood aghast 
To see the form of a maiden fair 

Lashed close to a drifting mast. 



^S IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

The salt sea was frozen on her breast ; 

The salt tears in her eyes ; 
And he saw her hair, like the brown sea-weed, 

On the billows fall and rise. 

Such was the wreck of the Hesperus 

In the midnight and the snow ! 
Christ save us all from a death like this, 

On the reef of Norman's Woe 1 " 

The walk along the old path by the rocky shore is, perhaps, 
the most attractive ramble in the vicinity of Magnolia. This 
section of seashore property has recently come into the posses- 
sion of the Magnolia Shore Association, which company will no 
doubt soon place the same upon the market, in suitable building 
lots for the summer resident. 

The view of the ocean is a most extensive one from any point 
along this shore ; we have but to stretch forth our hand and 
grasp the lighthouse on Eastern Point, it seems so near at hand. 
Massachusetts bay makes a pretty picture to look upon, with 
the white-winged craft decorating its tossing surface, and far 
across the waters can be seen the dull blue headlands of Cape 
Cod, rising cloud-like from that sandy shore. 

Back of the rocky shore the rambler finds the same uneven 
and irregular surface, though covered with a thick growth of 
native trees, among which 

" maples spread their cooling shade 

and tall oaks kiss the skv." 

Berries of nearly every kind are here found in great abun- 
dance, and also that sweetest of all the wild flowers of early 
spring, the " trailing arbutus." In the great tree-covered swamp 
beyond these hills thrives the famous " Magnolia" or sweet bay 
shrub, growing from ten to a dozen feet in height, with a beau- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 39 

tiful smooth green foliage and large white, sweet-scented flowers, 
first discovered by a Dr. Cutler, and which is found in no other 
spot on the territory of the New England states. It is this flow- 
er that suggested the name for the attractive summer resort near 
at hand. 

The improvements at Magnolia are yearly adding much to the 
attractiveness of the settlement ; a considerable sum of money 
was raised among the summer residents at a fair at the Hesper- 
us House, during the last season, for the purpose of erecting a 
chapel for religious purposes, and the corner-stone of the new 
edifice was successfully laid on Sunday, August 24, 1884, with 
appropriate services, on the lot on Fuller street between the 
Fuller cottage and the residence of Mr. Piper. The new build- 
ing will be known as " Union Chapel," and is not to be used by 
any one denomination or sect exclusively. 

A new piece of road connecting Magnolia Point with the main 
highway has recently been built, by order of the County Com- 
missioners, from a point on Magnolia avenue opposite Norman 
avenue, which now shortens the distance from the settlement to 
the railroad station at least a mile. 

A society known as the Magnolia Improvement Society has 
recently been formed for the purpose, as its name implies, of 
protecting and developing the natural and social attractions of 
the place and the general improvement of the standard and tone 
of the village life. 

The wheelman will greatly enjoy a day or two at this seaside 
resort ; if he wishes a pleasant sail upon the waters of the ad- 
joining bay, he has but to seek the owner of one of the numer- 
ous craft anchored within the neighboring cove. Fishing is 
prime sport, and may be indulged in from off the rocks or in the 
deep sea farther out. Bathing is excellent on the half-mile 



40 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

crescent-shaped beach, and one will have no cause for complaint 
at the absence of any of the popular attractions common to the 
fashionable summer resort of the period. 

In returning to Gloucester the wheelman will find a pleasant 
trip via " Little River Road," so called, to West Gloucester, 
thence to Essex avenue, and so on to the city proper. 




Ill— BY WHEEL TO KHEBftggO POI^D. 



Another enjoyable ride for the 'cydist, for a short run, is the 
twelve-mile trip to Hamilton and the Chebacco Lakes. This 
route has especial attractions for the wheelman, lying as it does 
through a country of farm-lands and meadows of much pictur- 
esque beauty. There is but a single unrideable hill in the entire 
course, and the run is easily made in one and a quarter hours. 
Gloucester riders consider this trip one of the most pleasant 
wheel runs in the vicinity. 

From the league hotel the way is over Western avenue to the 
road turning off toward the right and leading over the marsh, 
just after passing the bridge, thence the route follows along 
Essex avenue, as the way is called, up the short incline of Lov- 
ett's hill, and on, over a new piece of road-way, for about a mile 
and a half, then the neat and trim-looking stable of the Fern- 
wood Lake Ice Co. comes into view on the left of the road, and 
here the wheelman may dismount, if he so chooses, for a cooling 
drink at the stone basin near at hand. The newly-built road- 
way at this point leads to the lake itself, situated a few hundred 
feet only from the main highway ; this lake, the property of Mr. 
F. W. Homans, furnishes a large proportion of the ice used by 
the Gloucester fishing vessels, besides keeping supplied a con- 
siderable retail business during the summer. The mammoth 



42 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

house here measures 210 by 237 feet, and is the largest in the 
state ; it has a storage capacity of 40,000 tons. 

From Fernwood lake to the city proper the road is sadly out 
of repair, due, in a great measure, to the heavy teaming of the 
ice company, which is almost constant over it ; the surface is 
generally covered with a layer of muddy gravel from four to eight 
inches deep, and gullies and ruts across the way about every ten 
feet of the distance ; the road is rideable, however, if the wheel- 
man uses a little extra care and does not attempt a " flying" 
pace. A few hundred yards beyond the Fernwood stables, and 
the rider reaches the long, gradual descent known as Railroad 
hill, situated in West Gloucester, and within a few rods of the 
Boston & Maine railroad. In descending this hill much caution 
should be exercised, for the road is rough, and that curve at the 
foot may hide some approaching team ; for this reason the coast, 
if taken at all, should not commence until the wheelman reaches 
that point from which he can view the remainder of the way, 
then, with " legs over," the descent can be finished with safety. 

And now begins the better portion of the trip ; from this point 
on, the wheelman finds the road surface in good condition for 
his rubber-tired wheel, and it is with thorough enjoyment that he 
notes the beautiful stretch of scenery constantly before his eye ; 
the farm-lands and houses flit by him in rapid succession ; the 
country church and wayside store, with the village post office, 
come into view and are as quickly left behind ; woodlands and 
meadows abound on either hand, and now and then the dark 
blue waters of the Annisquam river rise before him in the dis- 
tance, forming in the whole a grand picture of unsurpassing 
beauty and well worth the trip to see. 

Henry C. L. Haskell, Esq., is a good authority on matters of 
particular interest to the tourist, at West Gloucester ; he can be 



TN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 43 

found at the post office, and will cheerfully render any assist- 
ance in his power to all members of the wheeling fraternity. 
Mount Thompson, at this place, should be visited by the sight- 
seer ; a magnificent view is obtained from its summit. 

A short distance from the West Gloucester post office and the 
wheelman reaches "Slough hill," a narrow portion of the road 
hemmed in by massive ledges of rough granite. This hill has 
a discouraging look in the eye of the 'cyclist, as he views the in- 
cline from the farther end of the level approach, but he will ex- 
perience no difficulty in riding to the top if he is careful to avoid 
the many gullies of loose sand that dot the road surface at this 
point. 

Beyond Slough hill the road continues its winding course, ris- 
ing and falling in graceful swells like the bosom of old ocean ; 
huge trees border the way on either hand, and occasionally the 
pretty farm-house shows itself in a cleared place by the road- 
side. The wheelman now takes advantage of the sand-papered 
country highway, and on he speeds in his noiseless ride for per- 
haps ten minutes; then he reaches a slight rise in the road 
surface, from which a good view is had of the town of Essex just 
beyond ; now do a little rapid work on the pedals and you catch 
a pleasing coast, that should carry you around the curve to the 
sign-board on the right of the way, which sign-board is just five 
and a half miles from the Gloucester Hotel. 

Now turning to the left, the ride continues over the narrow 
road across the marsh, and on into the busy little country town 
of Essex. Following the road directly through the settlement 
the 'cyclist quickly reaches the long causeway with its many 
ship-yards, where for a few minutes we will take a brief halt for 
a look around the place. The town of Essex, as almost every 
one knows, is noted particularly for its ship-building. This bus- 



44 JN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 

iness has gained for the little village a justly entitled prominence, 
second to none other in the country, for here are built some of 
the staunchest craft that floats the waters ; nearly all of the 
Gloucester fleet were launched at Essex, and certain it is, that 
no better vessels than those that stand the terrific gales of Geor- 
ges and the Western Banks float upon the sea to-day. These 
vessels are all of the clipper type, with graceful lines and thor- 
oughly built. Among the largest builders here are A. D. Story 
and Moses Adams ; the former built and launched during the 
year just closed, 13 vessels, aggregating nearly 1030 tons and 
valued at $100,000 when ready for sea. Mr. Adams did a bus- 
iness of over $60,000 during the same season. Last spring 
(1884) the firm of John James & Co. launched the largest vessel 
built in Essex — the three-masted schooner "Julia Fowler," owned 
by W. H. Ryder and others of Boston. This craft, which was 
built for the coast trade, had a white oak frame and planking, 
and hard pine ceiling ; her dimensions were 300 tons (carpen- 
ter's measurement), 213 net tonnage, length 120 feet over all, 
beam 27 feet, hold 11 feet, draught 12 feet, value, all ready for 
sea, $20,000. The best prices contractors received were $65 
and $70 per ton, which was during the war period ; last year the 
price averaged about $45 per ton. Ship carpenters earn on an 
average $2.50 per day, and good calkers from $18 to $20 per 
week during the busy season. The best profits, contractors find 
in the fishing vessels of 75 to 100 tons, and they are better pre- 
pared to build them than any other class ; the building of large 
vessels has long ago gone farther to the eastward ; the last large 
one built here was in 1840 — a 400-ton ship. Ten years ago the 
James firm did quite a business in three-masted schooners, but 
this, too, has dropped off considerably since. 

Essex originally formed a part of Ipswich, and was long known 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 45 

as " Chebacco" ; it was incorporated a town in 1819; situated 
in the easterly part of the county of Essex, it is bounded north- 
erly by Ipswich, easterly by Gloucester, southerly by Manches- 
ter, and westerly by the town of Hamilton, from which it is sep- 
arated for a considerable distance by the Chebacco. Pond. It 
was at Essex that the first craft was built that afterward were so 
common on the north-east coast as " Chebacco boats" ; it is said 
that the builder did the work upon the new craft in an upper 
story of his dwelling house, and that when the boat was finished 
it was found necessary to take away the window frames and 
nearly the entire side of the building in order to get the affair 
out for launching. 

From Chebacco Pond flows the Essex river, a small stream 
emptying into the sea at a point between Castle Neck in Ipswich 
and Two Penny Loaf in Gloucester ; this stream divides the set- 
tlement into two nearly equal sections. " Hog Island," a round- 
ed knoll containing several fine farms, is situated between Cas- 
tle Neck and the main land, and is noted especially as the birth- 
place of the eminent lawyer and statesman, Rufus Choate, in the 
year 1799. In the near vicinity of Hog island is Cross' island, 
on which is the Summer residence of H. A. Burnham, Jr.— the 
L. A. W. consul of Gloucester — where wheelmen may be sure 
of a cordial reception whenever they chance to happen in the 
near vicinity. 

The people of Essex are industrious and hospitable. Besides 
ship-building, farming, gardening and fishing are carried on 
somewhat extensively; boots and shoes are also manufactured; 
and since the opening of the Essex Branch of the Eastern rail- 
road a considerable ice business has continued, the Chebacco 
Pond furnishing an excellent quality for transportation. 

Leaving the shipyards at Essex, the wheelman continues the 



46 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

ride up the short hill past the meeting-house and down the road 
leading off toward the left, pointed out by the sign-board here as 
the way to Hamilton. The road going toward the right will 
take one to Ipswich and Newburyport, and is usually in a fine 
condition for bicycle riding. 

Essex soon drops behind the 'cyclist, for before him the way 
opens with that good hard surface so common to the country 
roads in the vicinity, and up and down the gently rising grades, 
following the narrow winding way, flitting on past the many 
well-kept farms and orchards, does the happy wheelman spin. A 
guide-board soon again points out the right direction, and then 
the way continues up a long easily ridable incline and on around 
a gigantic curve that admits of an enjoyable view of the pleasing 
farm-land country ; soon another guide-board appears at the 
entrance to the famous Centennial Grove, and at this point the 
rider gets his first view of the deep blue surface of the Chebacco 
Lakes ; now the road surface is more broken — sharp-pointed 
stones dot the heretofore sand-papered way, and an inch or two 
of finely powdered sand, a little further on, makes it necessary 
for careful riding ; the hill beneath the willows is a treacherous 
one for 'cycling on account of a deep gravelly surface — it is 
a short one, though, and ridable for the rubber-tired wheel. At 
the top again the wheelman finds himself on a pleasing level, and 
now he casts his eye with delight at the beautiful panoramic 
picture before him ; just look to the right and notice those mam- 
moth hills rearing their green covered tops well up into the sky 
— it seems as though some wonderful freak of nature had caused 
this gigantic tumbling and shaking up of the surface of mother 
Earth just to test the effect of its unrivalled powers, so grandly 
impressive is the picture. 

A few yards farther on and the first dismount becomes a 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 47 

necessity, for the road now leads up that broad, sweeping hill 
on the left with a surface of from three to six inches of sandy 
gravel nearly to its summit. I never saw this hill in condition 
for the bicyclist to climb. The one particular spot that annoys 
the rider is on the level at the foot of the incline ; here the 
sandy surface always measures from six to ten inches in depth, 
through which it is almost impossible to propel the rubber- 
rimmed machine. At the top another grand view is obtained 
of the surrounding country, and it is a picture always recalled 
to the mind of the beholder. 

Mounting the wheel again, the rider continues the way along 
a narrow tree-bordered road with a fairly good surface, and soon 
reaches the crossing of the Essex branch of the Boston & Maine 
railroad. The station to the right, at this point, is known as 
" Woodbury's Crossing," where the wheelman may take the 
train for Salem or beyond, if he feels so disposed. A few min- 
utes' ride from this point and the trip nears its end, for at the 
first road turning off at the left the wheelman will notice a sign- 
board that points the way to the " Chebacco House and the 
Lakes." Into this the way continues, and now the 'cyclist 
catches a most delightful spin over the well-hardened track ; 
how the thick woods on our right seem to fly past us as we 
proceed along, and how deliciously cool does the sweetly scented 
breeze come to us as we rapidly coast that gently falling grade 
adown the wooded road ; on we glide with " legs over," around 
the projecting point of the lake waters and up the little rise 
ahead, then again with "legs over" do we take advantage of the 
sand-papered slope before us, and so we reach " Whipple's," our 
face a trifle flushed with the excitement of the last half-mile 
spurt. Here our machine is given into the hands of the genial 
'Lonzo — who, by the way, is a warm friend of the wheeling fra- 



48 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

ternity — and then after a wash up at the hotel beyond, we are 
ready for the stroll around on foot. 

I suppose almost everybody has heard more or less of Che- 
bacco Pond and the famous hotel at this place kept by Messrs. 
A. L. & S. A. F. Whipple, and of the broiled chicken dinners of 
those caterers, that long ago made the reputation of the house 
— a reputation held strong to-day, it being the one great draw- 
ing card of the establishment. Day after day, through the long 
Summer months, on Sundays especially, are the dining rooms 
of this hostlery well filled with happy hungry beings, whose 
merry prattle and joyous laughter make the old walls fairly ring 
as the toothsome viands are being disposed of. Wheelmen are 
cordially welcomed at this hotel, as any and every thing will be 
done for them by the painstaking management. 

The rambles around the Chebacco lakes are many, and afford 
much enjoyment to the sight-seer. You walk down to the large 
pond, and much of interest presents itself. Afar off on the fur- 
ther side of the lake, as you sit upon the structure built into the 
water at this point, is noticed the buildings at Centennial Grove, 
the camp-ground qf the Salem Cadets for the past two seasons. 
The lad will furnish you with sail or row boat for a pleasing sail 
upon the deep blue surface, or for fishing, as one feels disposed ; 
perch, pickerel and trout abound in these lakes, and consider- 
able sport is thus open to the visitor. The way leading through 
the woods to Manchester is a particularly romantic walk for the 
rambling tourist ; on this road, which is ridable for the wheel- 
man a considerable portion of the way, will be noticed the 
placid, glass-like surface of " Gravel Pond," a sheet of water 
almost shut in entirely from its outside surroundings by several 
high tree-covered hills. 

The Indian name of Chebacco means " Place of Spirits," 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 49 

though why it should thus be called is not the purport of this 
article to explain. The lake, covering nearly two hundred and 
sixty acres, is mostly within the limits of the town of Hamilton. 
Other points of interest in the vicinity will be cheerfully shown 
the visitor by the proprietors of the Chebacco House, and all 
should be seen to be fully appreciated. 




IV— ft WHEEL ftl^OUP KftPE ftljl^. 



If the wheelman would see the most characteristic features 
of Cape Ann, the trip around the shore road should not be omit- 
ted. The route is the most enjoyable of any wheel-run in the 
vicinity, and leads through a rural district of constantly chang- 
ino- scenery — a country of woods, hills, massive ledges and loose 
gigantic bowlders, with a grandly impressive picture of ocean 
scenery for nearly the entire sixteen miles. 

The start is made as before, at the Gloucester Hotel, and the 
ride is first along Main street over the route described in a for- 
mer chapter as the way to Eastern Point, to the junction of East 
Main street with Eastern avenue, thence up the latter named 
thoroughfare to the main county highway leading to the town 
of Rockport. The road surface begins to improve from this 
point, and the wheelman rapidly pedals over the narrow side 
path and soon gets away entirely from the vicinity of the scat- 
tered dwelling houses that frequent the locality. 

Passing Webster's ice-houses on the left, the tourist continues 
the route up and down the many gradual rises, through the 
patches of newly-laid road material, and on, over the pleasing 
smooth portions of the country road until the short and rough 
descent is reached near the ice pond of Mr. Day. Beyond this 
pond the road continues its winding course, and then the rider 
reaches a more open section of country. Now the first of a se- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 51 

ries of most enjoyable pictures presents itself to the eye of the 
beholder : Away off to the right is seen a long white stretch 
of sandy beach, with the ocean and islands beyond and the at- 
tractive Bass Rock settlement at East Gloucester; back of us, 
and to our left, rise great rugged-looking hills and mammoth 
ledges ; while all around us, on either hand, are countless num- 
bers of loosely lying bowlders of almost every conceivable 
shape and size. 

We now speed upon a newly-.built piece of road at this point, 
extending around a massive hill of rock, and soon pass the pict- 
uresque-looking residence of the Hon. John J. Babson, the his- 
torian of Gloucester, amid the waving branches of the thicklv 
growing trees at our right ; just beyond, a guide-board flits by 
us with its "Rockport, 2]/^ miles," then with a flying spurt we 
easily climb the little hill ahead and soon come to a tree- 
bordered section of the route. 

The roadway for the next mile is generally in a poor condition 
for bicycle riding, though with care the greater portion of that 
distance may be gotten over without a dismount from the ma- 
chine ; the pace, however, must be a slow one, for the sandy 
surface hides innumerable sharply pointed stones and loose 
pebbles, that are sure to cause the rider a serious mishap if he 
without warning attempts to ride rapidly over them. 

We cross the boundary line between Gloucester and Rock- 
port in this vicinity, and in a few minutes reach Beaver Dam 
Farm on the left-hand side, with its quaint looking stone struct- 
ure bearing the inscription, "Beaver Dam, 1832," reminding one 
most forcibly of an oasis amid the surrounding country of hills 
and ledges. Opposite Beaver Dam, snugly nestling within the 
deep shadows of the high forest-covered hills, lies the famous 



52 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN 

sheet of fresh water known as Cape Pond, with a beautiful grove 
for picnic parties upon its shores. 

Soon after passing Beaver Dam the rider follows along the 
route, side by side with the railroad track, and then reaches 
a portion of the trip that will test his abilities to the utmost as a 
hill climber. Great Hill looms before the wheelman for quite 
a distance ere the base is reached, and its good hard-looking 
surface tempts the 'cyclist to the task he afterward gladly resigns, 
for the incline is a long one and well calculated to give the 
veteran wheelman a severe trial ; to the inexperienced road 
rider the hill is unridable, and such tourists should avoid taxing 
their strength by dismounting at the end of the rail fence on the 
left side of the road. This hill is a grand one for coasting, on 
the return, though the machine should be kept well under con- 
trol at the start. From the top of Great Hill, as the 'cyclist 
wheels along, the picture is truly grand : Away ahead the spires 
and steeples of Pigeon Cove and Rockport sparkle brightly 
under the glare of the burning sun; off to the right is a long 
blue stretch of ocean surface and the famous Thacher's island 
with its two tall lighthouses that seem to guard like sentinels 
Cape Ann's rock-bound coast ; behind us fields, woodlan.ds and 
lofty hills are noticed, with a far-off view of the ice-houses at 
Fernwood lake in West Gloucester. All in all, the picture is 
the most pleasing from this standpoint than from any other 
upon the Cape, including, as it does, the greater portion of the 
prominent features that characterize the headland of Cape Ann. 

And now the gradual slope into the town of Rockport begins, 
and away speeds the rambling 'cyclist directly into the village 
center, following the main thoroughfare, then turning into Rail- 
road avenue, continuing on up the short incline and passing the 
station on the left to North street, down the long gently sloping 




Pigeon cove Horise, Krs. E. 3. BoMnson ^ u 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 53 

surface of which we rapidly spin with legs over handles, once 
again meeting the county highway, and soon reaching the stone 
bridge of the Rockport Granite Company. 

Upon entering the town of Rockport the stranger at once 
notices the many uses to which the chief product of the locality 
is put — stone houses, stone churches, stone fences, stone piers 
— it is stone, stone everywhere. Mammoth ledges of handsome 
looking granite confront the sight-seer on every hand ; these 
ledges once covered the entire territory hereabouts for many 
miles around, but long years of constant clipping upon them 
have produced a wondrous change in the original condition of 
the land — little by little have the deep gullies and basins been 
extended into the solid rock, until it now seems as though, in- 
deed, the very bowels of the earth must be exposed. 

The view from this stone bridge to the eastward is particularly 
enjoyable, as, indeed, it is for the remainder of the trip to Pig- 
eon Cove. The cyclometer should here register 5^ miles, and 
at the long hill beyond, at Pigeon Cove, 6)^ miles. The surface 
of the road from the bridge, for the balance of the trip around 
the Cape, is simply magnificent for the rubber-tired wheel, and 
fully repays the 'cyclist for the little extra work attending the 
run from Gloucester to this point. 

The hill at Pigeon Cove is easily ridden by the wheelman — 
take the left side going up — and at the pleasant and cosy looking 
Pigeon Cove House, at the top, we will dismount for a brief 
ramble around the locality. 

Pigeon Cove has long held a prominent position among the 
popular Summer resorts of the northeast coast, having as it does 
its own especial attractions for the rambling Summer tourists. 
The earliest Summer visitor to this vicinity was Richard H. 
Dana, Sr., who came in 1840 in search of a pleasant seaside 



54 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 

retreat ; he was greatly pleased with the locality, and for a num- 
ber of years afterward spent many delightful seasons here m 
company with his friend, William Cullen Bryant. These gen- 
tlemen though both somewhat reserved and retiring m manner 
sou<^ht out and visited the homes of the villagers, and conversed 
pleasantly with the inmates of the many abodes sequestered in 
the woods, and in the little fishing shanties along the rocky shore 
-words that to-day are still recalled and repeated with mmgled 
pride and pleasure. Mr. Bryant, after purchasing his Summer 
house on Long Island, did not again visit the vicinity of Pigeon 
Cove, and Mr. Dana finally built an elegant residence at Man- 
chester Mass., on the south shore of the Cape. 

Pigeon Cove is the North Village of Rockport. The uneven 
surface of the territory is covered with great shaggy looking hills 
of o-ranite, interspersed with quiet valleys and overrun with thou- 
sairds of narrow winding foot-paths and shady lanes. Its bold 
rock-bound shore indented with numerous little coves and inlets, 
makes the chances easy and good for either boating, bathing or 
fishin-:' The Pigeon Cove House, at which the wheelman is 
now resting, is the best in the locality; its proprietress, Mrs. 
E S Robinson, is devoted to the work of catering to the wants 
of seashore visitors, and is sure to please her patrons; wheel- 
men are especially recommended to this house-a slight discount 
from regular rates will be allowed them. The Ocean View, just 
back of the Pigeon Cove House, is also a good hotel for the 
tourist; the building commands a grand view of the broad 

Atlantic. , , • ^u„ 

Back of the hotels and bordering on the rocky shore, is the 
famous section laid out by Messrs. Babson and Phillips a tew 
years ago. This section, comprising some fifty odd acres, is 
upon the e.xtreme end of Cape Ann, and is one of the most 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 55 

desirable locations for the Summer cottager upon the entire 
New England coast. Finely graded and well kept avenues and 
walks traverse the territory, crossing and recrossing each other, 
now at right angles, again in graceful curves, sometimes along 
the rocky shore, sometimes through groves of pines and oaks, 
and winding through an open section, fragrant with the scent 
of ferns, bayberry shrubs and wild roses — a highly enjoyable 
trip for the visiting wheelman. Many handsome looking private 
residences adorn this section, among which may be mentioned 
those of Mrs. Bishop on Haven avenue, Miss Sara Jewett (the 
well known leading lady of the Union Square Theatre), Mr. 
Frothingham, Mr. Thompson, Mr. Willey, Mrs. Chapin of New 
York, and others on Phillips avenue. The Linwood is the name 
of the hotel here ; it stands upon a high cliff within a couple of 
hundred feet of the shore ; the view from this point is truly 
magnificent — you see the entire coast to Rockport village, and 
'way beyond to Thacher's island with its famous twin lights, 
where 

" Steadfast, serene, immoyable, the same 
Year after year, through all the silent night, 

Burns on forevermore that quenchless flame, 
Shines on that inextinguishable light ! " 

The bare savage looking rocks known as the Salvages, peep 
above the restless waves of the open sea, in front of us, about 
three miles from the shore, while to our left stretches out the 
broad expanse of Ipswich bay, with the highlands of the " down 
east " coast easily distinguishable. 

The walk and rambles near Pigeon Cove are many and par- 
ticularly worthy of notice. I will quote a few of the most enjoy- 
able, from the work of Rev. H. C. Leonard on Pigeon Cove : 

" It is an easy and pleasant walk to the Breakwater. On this 



S6 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

outer wall of Pigeon Cove harbor the near scene of fishermen at 
the wharves, and of stone-sloops loading with granite to take 
to Boston and other cities, is entertaining to those who have not 
often looked upon it, and even to those to whom it has been 
a long time familiar. Turning about and looking in the oppo- 
site direction, the never uninteresting ocean, the always-the-same 
and yet the ever changing expanse of waves, glorious in the sun 
and gay with sailing craft of every description, is surveyed ad- 
miringly. From the Breakwater the marginal path is followed 
along the shore to ' Singers' Bluff,' which overlooks the sea but 
a few hundred yards from the hotels. Thence the walk is con- 
tinued by the Bath, where the bathers in picturesque costumes 
are cheerfully plunging into the sea or dancing in the surf ; by 
the Blue Streaks, veins of trap, some a few inches, others sev- 
eral feet through, which cross the granite Cape from north to 
south ; by Chapin's Rock and Gully, the former at low tide half 
in the water, the latter a great notch cut into the shore of solid 
granite where it is highest and boldest ; by Ocean Bluff, the out- 
ermost footing of Andrews' Point, the farthest Cape Ann pro- 
jection towards England ; thence around Hoop Pole Cove to 
the old cedar; and so by Cedar avenue, Phillips avenue and 
Ocean avenue — where the Salvages are seen as a brooch on the 
bosom of the sea — back to the place of setting out. At the 
going down of the sun many walk the little distance on the old 
road of the village to Sunset Rock in the Babson pasture. Here 
the spectacle of the setting sun, and of the colors that slowly 
fade while the evening's shades are falling, is the more than 
reward for strolling a few rods. Returning, Strawberry Hill is 
climbed. Here Straitsmouth and Thacher's lights on the right, 
and Ipswich and Newburyport lights on the left, are almost 
equally distinctly seen ; and far over the waves the eye catches 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 57 

the gleam, appearing regularly every few minutes, of the Isles 
of Shoals revolving light. Those who are vigorous enough for 
the ramble go to Halibut Point, following the shore from An- 
drews' Point around Hoop Pole Cove, or by the way of the vil- 
lage road and Captain Gott's Lane ; or go to Folly Cove, and 
Folly Point and the Willows, and thence return by Jumper's 
Lane, and by a footpath through the woods to Edmunds & 
Lane's quarry, and then by a quarry road leading to the village 
in the rear of Overlook, the old House, and Edmunds' Hall ; or 
go to the top of Pigeon Hill by the lane ascending from Mr. 
Eames' house, or through the woods in a footpath on the north- 
ern side of this elevation ; or go to the wood-sheltered home 
of the Knutsfords by the carriage way of the old house, and by 
grass-covered cart-paths and footpaths the rest of the distance ; 
or go to the quarries on the west and on the south side of Pigeon 
Hill, by quarry roads, in the shade of a young and thrifty forest 
all the way ; or go to the Moving Rock, in the rear of Lanes- 
ville ; half way to Annisquam through the woods. This curi- 
osity is a boulder of perhaps eighty tons — so poised on a ledge 
just appearing above the sward that when pushed against by the 
shoulders of a man, or pressed b}' a man's weight upon it, first 
on one side and then on the other, as one would rock a boat, it 
will perceptibly vibrate. Under extraordinary pressure its oscil- 
lations are seen many yards off. . . . Sometimes ramblers who 
know the highest and purest enjoyment of rambling, spend day 
after day in the woods, purposely losing themselves in the com- 
plexity of intersecting paths to get the surprises here and there 
of new views of the sea, and of old ones too, frequently not 
recognized as familiar till the maze of the forest is left behind." 

" A city life who can endure, 
When fields are green and skies are blue ; 



S8 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN. 

Wlien flowers are fragrant— air is pure, 
And Nature's face is fresh and new?" 

Before leaving the vicinity of Pigeon Cove, I would suggest 
that bic3^clists intending to stop over at Rockport village, put up 
at the Abbott House, on Main street. Mr. Harry F. Payne, 
the gentlemanly proprietor, is particularly agreeable to touring 
wheelmen, and allows a discount of 20 per cent, from regular 
tariff rates. 

Resuming the ride from the Pigeon Cove House, the wheel- 
man now finds the road more uneven and irregular ; it is up 
hill, down hill, and around hill; the surface remains the same, 
however, and the 'cyclist has no difficulty in easily mounting the 
many steep inclines. After turning the curve in the road, near 
the old Babson homestead, a long gradual descent gives the 
opportunity for a delightful coast, and the tourist then catches 
a pleasing view of Folly Cove and the adjacent bay. 

The way now leads through a quaint little fishing settlement, 
and soon the wheelman enters the thriving village of Lanesville, 
after passing through a section of the road arched completely 
over with the thickly entwined branches of mammoth willows. 
A dismount at this cosy looking place, and you have the oppor- 
tunity of partaking of ice cream or soda at the little wayside 
store here, kept by Mrs. Marchant. Beyond the willows the 
road rises with a gradual sweep, continues along by the deeply 
cut quarries of the Lanesville Granite Company, on past the 
village store and church, and the dwellings of the few inhab- 
itants, and then the drug store of B. Howard Foster comes into 
view on the right, at which point we will take a momentary rest 
for a brief look around. 

All that tract of country lying between the Rockport boun- 
dary line at Folly Cove on the north and Plum Cove on the 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 59 

south is embraced in that section of Gloucester known as Lanes- 
ville. The business is quarrying and fishing; the former is 
carried on extensively by tlie Lanesville Granite Co., the Bay 
State Granite Co., and several other enterprising firms. A con- 
siderable amount is invested in the fisheries, and quite a number 
of men and boats are kept actively employed in this industry 
throughout the entire season. The granite quarries employ 
nearly four hundred men, the principal work being in founda- 
tion stones and paving. The material for the Masonic Hall 
building in Philadelphia came from Lanesville, and was fur- 
nished by Messrs. George Barker & Co. 

Once again securing our position astride the slender wheel, we 
continue the trip over a pleasing surface through the village 
center; we now have a number of highly enjoyable coasts, all 
of which are cautiously indulged in, and almost before we are 
aware of the fact we sight ahead, at the foot of a long and nar- 
row descent, the busy work-sheds of the world-renowned Cape 
Ann Granite Co., at Bay View. Down the long hill the coast is 
taken rapidly, and crossing the tracks of the Granite Co.'s rail- 
road, we begin the long pull up the broad white looking road 
surface of the hill ahead. 

Bay View takes in the territory lying between Plum Cove 
and the Annisquam meeting-house. The little settlement has 
become widely known all over the civilized land on account of 
the excellent quality of its granite for building purposes. It is 
noted, also, as the Summer residence of Gen. B. F. Butler and 
Col. Jonas H. French, though of late years the former gentleman 
has not been a steady sojourner here during the warm season. 
The General's residence is on the hill above the stone-yards 
on the right ; it is built of granite, and from its spacious ver- 
andas the view is most magnificent — the broad expanse of 



6o IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

Ipswich bay lies before you with its numerous white-winged 
craft, and the shores of Newburyport, Portsmouth and a long 
line of eastern coast are also plainly discernible. Col, French's 
residence is noticed on the right, just above the hill ; it adjoins 
the Butler premises, yet unlike the General's, the grounds are 
laid out with exquisite taste and show evidence of careful culti- 
vation. The granite company here employs from four hundred 
to seven hundred men the year 'round, and own a large tract 
of territory extending back from the sea and up the hill for over 
a mile and a half. It was at Bay View that the granite was 
quarried for the entire Boston postoffice building ; the granite 
work of the Danvers insane asylum was also furnished by the 
Cape Ann Company, as also that for the West Point military 
academy. New England Life Insurance Company building in 
Boston, and all of the largest columns (25 feet high) and bases 
of the public library building at Philadelphia. The stones for 
the base of the monument to Gen. Winfield Scott, at Washing- 
ton, came from this company, and were the largest pieces ever 
quarried ; the size of the platform was 28.2 x 18.5 X3.2 feet and 
weighed 150^ tons ; the sub-base was 21.6 x ii x 4.10 feet and 
weighed 104 tons ; the base was 18 feet long, 7.10 feet wide and 
3.10 feet thick and weighed 48;^ tons; with two others, the 
total weight of these mammoth stones was over 400 tons, and 
the entire lot was taken from a single quarry, known as the 
" Blood Quarry." The paving blocks turned out by this com- 
pany since their occupation of the place in 1869, is almost be- 
yond computation — it ranges well up among the millions, cer- 
tainly. The company recently shipped a mammoth piece of 
stone work to New Orleans, to be placed in one of the many 
French cemeteries there. 

From a little work entitled " The North Shore," very pleas- 







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IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 6i 



written by Messrs. Benj. D. Hill and W. S. Nevins, I quote 
illowing concerning the process of stone quarrying at Bay 



ingly 

the following concern 

View 



" The soil being cleared from a ledge and an examination 
having been made to see how the seams run, a steam drill is set 
to work boring two holes from lo to i8 feet in depth and 3 
inches in width, and 2 inches apart. A half keg of powder is 
put in these holes and ignited with electricity. The explosion 
lifts the ledge from seam to seam, usually in a straight line. 
Sometimes these lifts are of 20,000 tons weight. The blasts do 
not smash the rock at all ; a person is perfectly safe standing 
a few feet away. The section of the ledge thus broken off is 
split into smaller sections, to suit various purposes, with small 
hand drills and wedges. These pieces are taken to the yard by 
train, there to be worked into whatever shape desired, with 
hammer and chisel. The work is mainly done from drawings, 
though sometimes from patterns. The pieces of stone for the 
various purposes are entirely prepared at the company's yard, so 
that there is no cutting or trimming when they arrive at their 
destination ; nothing to do but put them in place. Those men 
who do the drilling and cutting out of stone, and those who 
chisel out scroll work and smooth and polish various blocks 
of granite, work by the day. Those who cut out the small 
blocks, sold mainly for paving, work by the piece. It requires 
a man of experience to select the ledges to be worked and direct 
where the holes shall be drilled. He miist understand the grain 
of the ledge and its seams, and know just which way it will split 
best. A man of long experience will judge correctly ninety-nine 
times out of a hundred, while a person of no experience will spoil 
a ledge as often as he will succeed." 



62 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

From the quarries the way leads on to the meeting-house at 
Annisquam, where the main road branches to the right and left. 
To the left the tree-bordered road winds around the base of 
a mammoth cliff, nearly fifty feet above the surface of Lobster 
Cove, the glistening waters of which the rider notices through 
the branches of the thickly growing trees on the right. The 
long bridge connecting the main road with the settlement at 
Annisquam next comes into view, over which the wheelman rap- 
idly spins for a brief visit to that picturesque locality. For 
a more direct route to this settlement the wheelman should take 
the road turning toward the right near the meeting-house before 
spoken of. 

The territory of Annisquam includes that portion lying be- 
tween the meeting-house on the north and the junction of the 
old road with the main highway at Finson Wheeler's on the 
south. The village is located almost entirely on the westerly 
side of Lobster Cove. It has of late years gained considerable 
notoriety as a favorite summer resort, and seashore property in 
the vicinity has in consequence advanced wonderfully in value 
in the last ten years. The elevation of land known as the Cam- 
bridge avenue section is occupied almost entirely by people 
from that vicinity ; many costly and handsome looking houses 
have been built here, among the most prominent being those 
of Dr. Isaac Adams, Mr. Wilmot, Mr. Hall, Mr. Bent, Curtis 
Davis and W. B. Hastings. Dr. Adams has one of the finest 
estates in New England ; large sums of money have been judi- 
ciously expended in beautifying this seaside residence, until now 
the place is second to none as a comfortable and convenient 
home. The view from Cambridge avenue is a grand one, includ- 
ing the white-capped bay in front and the winding Annisquam 
river on the left, looking blue, green and amber in the sun's 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 63 

burning rays ; the white sandy shore of Coffin's beach across 
the way, and the sand covered hills in that vicinity are also con- 
spicuously presented to the naked eye. The picturesque cottage 
noticed on the extreme edge of the mammoth rocky ledge, and 
within a few feet only from the restless surface of the treacher- 
ous sea, is the residence of George J. Marsh, Esq., of Glouces- 
ter. The only hotel in the vicinity is the Grand View on High- 
land avenue, where wheelmen will be well cared for during their 
sojourn at the village. 

Returning from the pleasantly situated settlement at Anni- 
squam, we once more cross the bridge and continue on the main 
highway toward Gloucester. The road has a very pleasing sur- 
face for bicycling ; to be sure, the hills appear as frequently as 
before, though all are easily ridden and without difficulty. At 
the foot of the first descent we pass on the right the Summer 
home of Prof. Alpheus Hyatt, of the Boston Society of Natural 
History ; it occupies a pretty position there by the river side. 
The view the wheelman now obtains as he wheels along the nar- 
row causeway by the old grist-mill is very fine ; at the top of the 
little elevation ahead he catches a charming sight of the 'Squam 
settlement, the river and its fleet of gaily decked pleasure craft, 
Coffin's beach and the deep blue surface of the bay beyond. 

The grade of the travelled way now begins a long gradual 
ascent, at the end of which the picturesque section with the 
arching willow trees is reached, into which the rider glides with 
delight, wondering what future surprises the trip may have in 
store for him. On around the curve the route continues, then 
the way becomes more level, and the wheelman spins along the 
fairly good surface, quickly reaching the long, steep and rough 
descent known as the "meeting-house hill." In descending this 
hill use extra caution and do not attempt to coast ; the machine 



64 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

should be kept well under control by back pedalling and by 
brake power; keep a watchful eye for teams in rounding the 
curve at the foot, and be sure and take the right ha7id side in 
going down. 

Now we reach Riverdale mills, so called, and wheel across the 
bridge here, keeping to the left. We begin to pass the farm 
lands from this point, and find the road surface more uneven — 
hills present themselves at every dozen rods or so, and the 'cy- 
clist finds the wheeling just a trifle difficult. Soon the great 
black mass of rocks, known as the Poles, loom before us on the 
right, opposite to which the road makes a broad, sweeping turn, 
with an ascending grade that calls into active service the already 
weary muscles of the wheelman tourist. 

The narrow lane-like way leading from the main road off to 
the right, just after passing the Poles, will take the tourist to the 
banks of the Annisquam river ; it is but a few hundred yards 
distant, which the 'cyclist can quickly cover with his rubber-tired 
wheel. The view from the high knoll that forms the river's 
bank at this point, is particularly enjoyable. Many pretty cot- 
tages can be seen from here dotting the islands and banks of 
the little stream throughout its entire length, making a picture 
of much interest to the beholder. 

From the Poles the grade of the road takes a long gradual 
descent that admits of a pleasing coast, and then do we spin 
along the good hard surface ; on past the " Meeting House 
Green," so called, and around the little bend near the old "Ellery 
House," then up the short incline ahead and onto the sidewalk; 
of the travelled way. 

The old " Ellery House," so called, before spoken of, is one 
of the oldest buildings in Gloucester. It was built in 1704 as 
a parsonage for the Rev. John White ; a few years afterward the 




Willow Road, Riverdale. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 65 

dwelling came into the possession of James Stevens, who kept 
a tavern here till 1740, when Capt. William Ellery bought the 
place and continued it as a house of entertainment for several 
years; the house is still held in the possession of his descend- 
ants, and presents the same external appearance now as it 
did when first erected. The Selectmen used to meet at this 
tavern frequently, often transacting most of the town's business 
here. As appears by the records of the town, these gentlemen 
used to have a right royal good time ; for instance, one finds — 
" Expense for the Selectmen and Licker at Mr. James Stevens' 
Tavern, 3^ i8s. 2d." This was in 1740, and the Selectmen on 
this occasion were Capt. James Davis, Abraham Davis, Jabez 
Baker, Nathaniel Ellery and Timothy Day. From the River- 
dale mills to the "Meeting House Green" was the section 
where many of Gloucester's most prominent citizens used to 
live ; in those early days it was the best section of the town. 

And now the wheelman rapidly gets within the city's limits, 
for it is but a short distance after crossing the railroad track to 
the headquarters at the Gloucester Hotel ; and thus terminates 
the ride around Cape Ann — the most interesting to the ram- 
bling 'cyclist of any within the vicinity. The route is about 
sixteen miles, and can be covered in a couple of hours if the 
wheelman feels so disposed. 



v.— gOPPIIJ'S BBftSH, 



On the northern shore of Cape Ann, situated between the 
mouth or entrance of the Annisquam river and the rocky hillock 
known as " Two Penny Loaf," is another attractive section for 
the rambling tourist. Coffin's Beach — one of the finest of its 
kind on the entire Massachusetts coast — here stretches out its 
hard white looking sandy surface for nearly two miles in dis- 
tance, and slopes away into the waters of Ipswich bay on such 
a gradual incline that the out-going tide often retreats a distance 
of over six hundred feet. 

To get to Coffin's Beach by the land route the wheelman 
tourist will find many difficulties to overcome, for the way leads 
through a particularly rough section of the Cape territory. The 
road contains a number of short and long steep hills, the grav- 
elly surfaces of some of which make it impossible for bicycle 
riding ; but suppose the 'cyclist does make a little extra exertion, 
he will feel amply repaid for the work on his arrival at the jour- 
ney's end, for the beach picture alone is well worth the trip to 
see, to say nothing of the highly enjoyable •' spin " across the 
smooth and hard broad surface of the sandy shore. 

The distance from the Gloucester Hotel to the beach is about 
5^ miles. You first follow along the main highway to West 
Gloucester (which road has already been spoken of in a previous 
article), and after passing beneath the bridge at the foot of Rail- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 67 

road hill, take the first road leading off at the right, pointed out 
by the guide-board here as the way to " Coffin's Beach," and 
known as Concord street. The traveller soon passes the en- 
trance to the old Presson farm on the right, then climbs the 
narrow stone covered hill ahead and continues on down the 
winding road, through a thinly populated portion of the village. 

The first mile or so along this Concord street the wheelman 
will have a fairly good surface for his rubber-tired steed ; now 
and then a chance for coasting is noticed, which with due cau- 
tion can be indulged in. 

As the ride continues along this country path the eye meets 
at every turn in the way some grandly impressive picture — great 
hills of grey looking granite are frequently passed by — to the 
right now and then you catch a view of the deep blue surface of 
the Annisquam river and the boggy looking waters of the marsh- 
land ponds. Soon the dwelling houses become more thinly 
scattered and one by one drop behind, the roadway takes, if 
possible, a more irregular course, and then the tourist sights 
ahead the pleasantly situated Summer cottage of Hon. Charles 
P. Thompson on the left of the travelled way — a large two-story 
house, painted a dark red color, and sitting directly opposite the 
curving little lane called Atlantic street, that branches off here 
for Coffin's Beach. Into the narrow way last named the tourist 
now continues the trip, finding the road surface a trifle more 
difficult for easy travelling than before. 

The way leads on over the rough shaggy-looking hills and 
around great hollows in the rocky surface made by the quarry- 
men in days agone, a number of deep looking gulches gaze at 
you from the sand covered surface further on, then the trees and 
tall shrubbery seem to drop behind, and a more open country 
comes into view. 



68 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

From the top of the last high elevation over which the road- 
way leads, the view to the right is most magniticent. Before 
you is the winding Annisquam river, its deep blue surface con- 
trasting strangely with the black, treacherous looking waters 
of the many pools in the marsh-lands that border the rippling 
stream ; beyond the river is noticed a long chain of shrubbery- 
covered hills, that hide from our vision a glimpse of the far dis- 
tant city proper. 

Continuing along the route, the sight-seer soon reaches the 
low pasture lands that comprise a portion of the beach prop- 
erty ; here the road leads across a swampy section, and following 
around the shore of a blueish-looking lake of fresh water, brings 
the traveller to the residence of Mr. S. T. Trumbull, the only 
all-year-'round inhabitant of the Coffin's Beach farm. It is but 
a few yards further on from Mr. Trumbull's house to the beach 
itself ; this road is sand covered to the depth of several inches, 
and will have to be walked by the wheelman visitor. 

Once at the beach, the picture is surveyed admiringly. Be- 
fore you, if the tide is out, is a vast, almost level tract of the 
purest white, extending for nearly a couple of miles in length, 
with a width varying from a hundred feet at the narrow end to 
over six hundred feet at its widest point — a surface of sand firm 
and unyielding, that sparkles brightly under the slanting rays 
of a burning sun ; a single object only on the white-topped plane 
to mar its beauty — that of the unsightly timbers of the old hulk 
at the far western end. To the left, as one stands facing the 
open sea, is noticed the high sand-covered hills, that remind 
the sight-seer of the snow-clad summits of the far East, and 
which give to the picture a most decided wintry aspect. On the 
right you see the 'Squam settlement, seemingly but a few rods 
distant, while the lighthouse in that vicinity can hardly be rec- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 69 

ognized, it seems so dwarfed and far away ; beyond, you catch 
a glimpse of the steeples of the Bay View settlement and also 
of the stone sloops at the quarry piers. Fronting us is the ever 
restless surface of the mighty sea — you have an uninterrupted 
view of the entire Ipswich bay from this point, and the eye can 
easily follow along the coast of Newburyport and Portsmouth to 
the highlands of the far away Maine shores ; on a clear day, and 
with a good glass, you can see easily the mountain Agamenticus, 
while the Isles of Shoals can be brought almost to your very feet. 

The section known as Coffin's Beach Farm was first settled 
upon by one Peter Coffin in the year 1688. In extCHt the terri- 
tory comprises nearly 500 acres, and at one time was the most 
valuable piece of farm land within the town's limits. Highly 
cultivated lands and wood covered hills gave to the region an 
especial importance in days long since gone by ; now one looks 
in vain for the slightest trace of the once large dwelling of the 
former owner or of the house occupied by his slaves ; instead 
of the rich looking lands and forest-crowned hills, the sight-seer 
notices only a collection of barren looking sand-covered hills 
and an uneven surface of sand-topped territory, tufted here and 
there with a coarse innutritous grass and dwarfed shrubbery. 
The present owner of the larger part of the old farm is Mr. 
Trumbull, before spoken of. This gentleman has recently cut 
up a section of the property into suitable building lots, quite 
a number of which have already been purchased by parties for 
their Summer residences ; on several of these lots neat and cosy 
looking cottages have been erected. Mr. Trumbull built the 
building used as a roller-skating rink and for dancing parties, at 
the end of the travelled road. 

In the Summer season the beach is quite a popular resort for 
the pleasure-loving tourist, and you are always sure of a fine 



70 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

dish of Trumbull's clam chowder at any time you reach the 
vicinity of his now famous cafe. 

This property is destined some day in the near future to be- 
come one of the most popular Summer resorts along the north- 
east coast — as soon as the now greatly needed railroad facilities 
are established, and a pleasure-seeking public will not be slow in 
recognizing the beauties of this attractive sandy shore. 




¥1— rQftljeHBSTBl^-BY-THB-SEii, 



Seven miles from Gloucester, on the county highway leading 
to Salem, is the prettily situated settlement bearing the above 
English sounding appellation ; it is another popular Summer 
resort for the seashore visitor, and one of the most picturesque 
locations on the coast. The vi^heelman tourist will enjoy a trip 
to this little village, for the route leads through an interesting sec- 
tion of country — the greater portion of the way being bordered 
with high, stately looking trees and tall densely growing shrub- 
bery, while the gently rolling surface of the well-trodden gravelly 
road adds not a small portion to the pleasures of a wheel run 
over the country way. 

From Gloucester the route extends to Magnolia, as before 
described, and thence over a long pleasing level surface we rap- 
idly pedal past the large Crescent Beach Hotel and up the 
gently rising grade beyond, soon reaching the descending slope 
on the other side, down which the favorite coast takes us swiftly 
by the entrance to the well kept grounds of T. J. Coolidge on 
the left, and then around the sharp curve ahead, opposite to 
which is noticed the glass-like surface of a tiny lake, and way 
beyond the white-capped waves of the sea itself; thence the 
route is around the base of a wood and shrub-covered hill, 
whereon is noticed amid the branches the pretty cottage of the 



72 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 



Summer resident. On our left is a tract of meadow and farm 
lands, winding through which extends a narrow roadway to the 
homes of the seashore visitors on the hills beyond. 

On over the hard road surface the wheelman now merrily 
spins, enjoying hugely the beautiful scenery as he wheels along. 
The road soon makes a curve to the left and follows up a grav- 
elly incline to a short level section, then a couple of easy riding 
grades is met with, passing at this point the first guide-board 
pointing the way to the towns beyond. At the top of the last- 
mentioned hill the road winds through a thickly wooded terri- 
tory, its well hardened surface adding much to the enjoyments 
of the ride. Now we reach a long curving descent that admits 
of a most delightful coast, though the 'cyclist should keep his feet 
upon the pedals until he has rounded the bend and can see the 
way ahead. This coast is one of the most enjoyable in all Cape 
Ann j you wheel rapidly through this thickly wooded section over 
the good surface of the country road, a deliciously cool breeze 
fanning you all the while ; now and then you notice a finely 
graded and well kept way leading from the main road to the left 
— they are the private drive-ways of the wealthy seashore resi- 
dent, and lead to as many costly villas on the coast below. 

Pedaling rapidly along the now well kept road, we are soon 
across the railroad track and within the limits of Manchester. 
The road surface is excellent all along from this point, and but 
a few minutes are required to complete the journey to the village 
center. 

The town of Manchester is very pleasantly situated on the 
north shore of Massachusetts bay. It is seven miles from Glouc- 
ester, nine miles from Salem, and about twenty-four miles from 
Boston over the county road. It is bounded on the north by 
the towns of Essex and Hamilton, on the east by Gloucester, on 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 73 

the south by Massachusetts bay, and on the west by the towns 
of Beverly and Wenham. In extent of territory the town is 
about four miles in length from east to west, by about two and 
one-half miles in breadth. Bold rocky hills and forest-covered 
valleys characterize the territory ; the uneven surface of the 
township is strewn with giant bowlders and grayish looking fixed 
rocks ; the soil is of the kind peculiar to such regions — a loom- 
ish sand mixed with a clayey substance, and the coarsest gravel. 
In the level sections of the town are quite a number of finely 
looking farms and gardens, for here the soil is well watered by 
numerous springs and brooks, and affords good land for culti- 
vation. 

One of the most characteristic features of the town of Man- 
chester is the remarkable rockiness of its coast line — a feature 
that is especially interesting to the eye of the stranger, and the 
main reason why the little town has gained such high prom- 
inence as a popular Summer resort. When Mr. Dana (senior) 
first purchased a tract of land on the sea coast in this vicinity, 
in 1845, ^"^ erected a substantial looking cottage in which to 
pass the few months of the heated season, the desire of the 
wealthy in the neighboring cities to do likewise, caused a rapid 
rise in the valuation of the seashore property ; and now one sees 
the result — nearly the entire section of the seashore lands has 
been bought up by a wealthy and cultured class, among whom 
are many well-known prominent people of the country ; elegant 
costly residences have been erected, and their grounds laid out 
and ornamented with great taste and skill, while a large increase 
in the valuation of the little town has brought the tax rate down 
to about $4.50 per $1,000. The valuation of Manchester last 
year was considerably over four and a half millions ; Gloucester, 



74 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

with its population ten times larger, had a valuation last year 
of but $11,376,812. 

But suppose we take our wheel and pay a short visit to this 
interesting locality by the seashore. 

We ride back toward Gloucester a few hundred feet and turn 
down the narrow road pointed out by the guide-board as Sum- 
mer street, along which the ride now continues. We soon cross 
the railroad track and then climb the steep hill beyond, passing 
on our left, half way up the hill, the picturesque looking cottage 
of the veteran tragedian, Joseph Proctor ; then the road winds 
along through a settlement of trim-looking cottages, up another 
short hill and on to a pleasing level roadway bordered with finely 
trimmed hedges and stately trees. We soon enter the private 
o-rounds of Mrs. J. H. Towne of Philadelphia, and continue over 
the well kept avenue to the turn-off, where a politely worded 
sign-board tells us that " Strangers are requested to turn here." 
Resting awhile at this spot, we cast our eye with delight on 
much pf the true beauty of the locality. Before us is the vast 
expanse of Massachusetts bay, its surface dotted here and there 
with the white sails of the many swiftly gliding yachts and 
schooners; the white curving sandy shore ahead is the famous 
" Singing Beach," so named from the fact that at times the 
swashing sea, as it falls upon the sandy shore, sends forth a sort 
of musical sound that is strikingly peculiar to the listener ; the 
large house here at this end of the beach is the residence of 
Mr. Wigglesworth, and it commands one of the finest views on 
the coast. 

Returning from the Towne estate to the main highway, we 
take the first road leading off to the left, and again climb a 
short, steep hill. Now we reach a more thickly settled section, 
and note with pleasure the beautifully laid out grounds that sur- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 75 

round the elegant looking dwellings. Continuing along through 
this pleasing settlement, we soon reach the well-known hostlery 
built by Mr. J. B. Booth about seven years ago, and named by 
him the Masconomo Hotel, in memory of an old-time chief of a 
once local tribe of Indians. 

At the Masconomo the wheelman tourist will find a particu- 
larly agreeable host in the person of Mr. George Holliday, who 
has had the management of the hotel for the past few seasons ; 
bicyclers are cordially welcomed, and may be sure of the best 
of treatment while under this truly hospitable roof. 

The Masconomo Hotel is one of the finest on the entire Mas- 
sachusetts coast. It is 240 feet in length, by over 50 feet in 
width, is three and a half stories in height, and has accommoda- 
tions for two hundred and fifty guests. Its dining hall is 32x75 
feet, and a large octagon hall in the centre of the house con- 
tains four mammoth fireplaces, that glow merrily with their great 
log fires on cold and stormy days. 

The 'cycling tourist should try one of the Masconomo dinners 
— take the way known as Beach street, leading from the town 
centre to the railroad station, it is a direct road to the hotel. 

From the Masconomo the run extends along the road to 
Manchester Neck, so called, and is through a section of much 
picturesque beauty. All along the route you note the many 
handsome looking residences, with their grounds laid out in 
beautiful flower beds and broad, well kept lawns ; you pass the 
pretty chapel on the right, recently erected by Mr. Sturgis, who 
owns a finely built mansion in the same vicinity. Winding 
along, the road passes a large orchard on the left, then follows 
around the bend of a tiny cove that makes in here from the 
adjacent bay, and after climbing a rather steep incline the tour- 
ist reaches another section of the attractive settlement. The 



76 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN 

sight-seer now finds himself in the midst of a cluster of the more 
expensive dwellings — large, comfortable looking cottages are 
here very charmingly situated on this little bluff overlooking the 
sea, some of which are of the oddest style of architecture, and 
all show evidence of a lavish outlay on the part of the wealthy 
owner. 

Continuing on over the road, you completely circle the eleva- 
ted portion near the extreme point. In this vicinity you note 
the beautiful residence of Mr. Charles Rogers of Boston, on the 
hill ; it is one of the most finely built mansions on the entire 
coast, as it is one of the most expensive. You have a magnifi- 
cent view to seaward as you stand here upon the elevation — how 
vast the stretch of water before us seems as we gaze upon it 
from this point ; the shore line also is plainly followed with the 
naked eye, even to the headlands of the distant cape beyond. 

The way now leads back by a winding route, and soon the 
large building now in process of construction by Mr. John L. 
Brimmer of Boston shows itself on the left of the road. On the 
hill just beyond, the rambling visitor finds the cottages of Mr. 
Rice and J. Warren Merrill; from this standpoint the picture 
of the town of Manchester is particularly noticeable — it has 
a quiet looking appearance nestling there in the shadows of 
those verdure-clad hills, and seems, indeed, at peace with all the 
world. You notice, also, from this point, a quaint looking 
structure on the opposite shore of the harbor, near the bridge ; 
it is one of the several small cottages erected by Dr. Bartol, and 
is called the " Barn-door " cottage, occupied this season by Mr. 
George A. Meyer of Boston. 

The way now quickly leads the visitor into the avenue leading 
directly to the Masconomo (Proctor street), and soon we reach 
the hotel grounds. Beach street in this vicinity takes the tour- 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 77 

ist directly into the business centre of tiie town, and tlius the 
circle is completed. 

A number of highly enjoyable drives radiate from Manches- 
ter. One of the most interesting is to follow School street to 
the town of Essex — a delightful wheel run for the rambling 'cy- 
clist; the road, after getting away from the vicinity of the dwelling 
houses, is bordered on either side with a thickly growing native 
forest, and the road surface is one of the finest for the rubber- 
tired wheel. A turn-off on this road at Pleasant street, on the 
left, will take one through a thick wood to the famous Chebacco 
House at the Lakes in Hamilton ; but this trip cannot be rec- 
ommended as a pleasing bicycle run, for the way is rough and 
has a continuous run of short and long steep hills. 




PA RT III. 



I— ]]QI2SELLftI]E0U2. 



The hotels at Gloucester, especially recommended to the 
wheelman tourist and the Summer visitor, are as follows : 

GLOUCESTER HOTEL, 

on the corner of Main and Washington streets, is the regularly 
appointed headquarters for the C. T. C. and L. A. \V. fraternity. 
The proprietor of the house is Mr. George L. Smith — a warm 
friend of the touring 'cyclist and a genial and painstaking host, 
who will exert his utmost to please his guests. Terms are $1.50 
to $2.00 per day, with a discount of 25 per cent, from these 
prices to wheelmen. Large parties of wheelmen intending to 
visit Gloucester, should telegraph this hotel the day before, that 
the proprietor may have everything in readiness for them upon 
their arrival. 

PAVILION HOTEL, 

on Western avenue, fronting the harbor, is under the manage- 
ment of Mr. William P. Davis — a landlord well known to former 
patrons of the Carleton and Everett Houses, at Jacksonville, 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 79 



Florida, and the Crescent Beach Hotel at Magnolia. Mr. Davis 
has fitted up this hotel with all the modern improvements, and 
is entitled to a share of the season's business, 

BASS ROCK HOUSE, 

at Bass Rocks, is conducted this year under the able manage- 
ment of Mr. F. H. Nunns (of the Quincy House, Boston). It 
is the L. A. W. headquarters for that section of the city; wheel- 
men are right at home under this hospitable roof ; every room, 
of the seventy in the house, commands a magnificent view 
of land and water scenery. Terms are : for June and Septem- 
ber, $2.00 per day; July and August, $3.00 per day. Tran- 
sients, $3.50 per day. Special rates to wheelmen, according to 
length of visit, made known on application. 

Ocean House, Western avenue, Mrs. S. A. Sherburne, pro- 
prietor. 

Webster House, No. 9 Pleasant street, Nathaniel Webster, 
proprietor. 

Hesperus House, at Magnolia, on Hesperus avenue at the 
Point, Mrs. Orra Paige, manager. 

Oak Grove House, at Magnolia, on way leading off from 
main avenue, Mrs. B. F. Hunt, proprietor. 

Ocean-Side, at Magnolia, on Lexington avenue, George A. 
Upton, proprietor. 

Willow Cottage, at Magnolia, on Magnolia avenue, Mrs. 
M. H. Bray, proprietor. 

Crescent Beach House, at Magnolia, on main highway 
leading to Manchester, D. S. Coffin, proprietor. 
* The Grand View, at Annisquam, on Highland avenue, John 
S. Wyman, proprietor. 

Craig Cottage, Delphine House, and Brazier Cottage, 



8o IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

at East Gloucester, are more for the permanent Summer guest 
than for the transient visitor. 

BOSTON AND MAINE R. R. (EASTERN DIVISION.) 

Station on Washington street. A. E. ElUott, ticket agent. 
Summer Season, 1S85. Trains leave for Boston — 

From Rockport at 6.05, 7.20, 7.40, 8.30, 10.00 A. m. ; 1.20, 5.00, 6.10, 

9.00 p. M. 
From Gloucester at 6.15, 7.29, 7.48, 8.39, 10.08 a. m. ; 1.30, 5.08, 

6.20, 9.09 p. M. 
From Magnolia at 6.25, 7.37, 7.57, 8.46, 10.16 A. m. ; 1.39, 5.17, 6.28. 
9.18 P. M. 
Trains leave Boston — 

For Magnolia, Gloucester and Rockport, at 6. 10, 8.05, 10.45 a. m. ; 

2.15, 3.30, 5.00, 6.20, 7.10, 9.20 p. M. 
During the season of 1885 a Sunday train leax^es Gloucester for Bos- 
ton at 7.55 A. M. 

Mr. Elliott, at this station, will cheerfully render any assist- 
ance to inquiring wheelmen. Stages connect here for Bay View, 
Lanesville, Essex, Annisquam and East Gloucester. 

BOSTON AND GLOUCESTER STEAMBOAT CO., 

Foot of Duncan street, Gloucester, Abbott Coffin, agent ; Cen- 
tral Wharf, Boston, E. S. Merchant, agent. 
Steamers " City of Gloucester " and " George A. Chafee " leave daily— 

For Boston at 3.00 and 7.45 a. m. No 3 A. M. steamer Mondays. 

Leave Boston at 11.00 a, m., and 3.15 P. M. (excepting Sundays.) 
During July and August, weather permitting, on Sundays boats 

Leave Gloucester at 6.00 and 10.00 a. m. 

Leave Boston at 3.30 P. M. 

Single fare, 50 cents; commutation ticket (6 trips), $2.40. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 8i 

EAST GLOUCESTER FERRY 

Leaves foot of Duncan street (Parkhurst's wharf) every 15 minutes 
for East Gloucester. 

Fare, 4 cents each way. 

THE ELLIOTT SKATING RINK. 

In the way of places of amusement Gloucester is sadly in 
want. The only really attractive section of the city in the Sum- 
mer evenings is that bordering the Pavilion Beach and along 
the locality known as the " Cut " on Western avenue. In this 
vicinity there is one amusement temple that calls for especial 
mention here. The Elliott Skating Rink is situated nearly oppo- 
site the Pavilion Hotel; it has a skating surface 40 x 116 feet, 
and is the favorite resort of a large portion of our youthful pop- 
ulace. The proprietor is Mr. Smith, of the L. A. W. hotel, and 
he has proven a most energetic one, with the able assistance 
of his manager, Mr. Fred. A. Harbison. A specialty at this 
place is a series of social dancing parties, on Saturday evenings 
— it is just the place to pass a pleasant two-hours for our wheel- 
man visitors. 

THE CAPE ANN YACHT CLUB. 

As many visitors come to Gloucester during the Summer 
months that are either more or less interested in the yachting 
matters of the city, I have obtained from the secretary of our 
local club a list of the several boats over 15 feet water-line, be- 
longing to that organization, together with their respective sizes, 
rig, and owner's name, as appears on the following page : 



82 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 











Length 




NAME. 


OWNER. 


KEEL 
OR C. B. 


RIG. 


Over 
All 


WATER- 
LINE. 


Sparkle 


G. W. Patterson 


Keel 


Sch. 


4L06 


37.02 


Forrest Bickford 


J. F. Bickford 


C. B. 


Sloop 


29.06 


27.00 


Three Sisters 


G. A. Doui?lass 


C. B. 


Sloop 


28.09 


26.06 


Effie Everett 


J. F. Bickford 


Keel 


Sloop 


27.08 


25.03 


Venus 


W. McKenzie 


C. B. 


Sloop 


26,05 


23.06 


Black Cloud 


Brown & Wheeler 


C. B. 


Sloop 


26.06 


22.10 


Roldon 


F. F. ^[artin 


C. B. 


Sloop 


22.05 


21.10 


Adele 


Haskell Bros. 


C. B. 


Sloop 


23.07 


20.10 


Kittiwake 


C. E. (Jumiingham 


C. B. 


Cat 


21.10 


20.10 


Cliarni 


G. Wheeler 


Keel 


Sloop 


22.07 


20.07 


Tarquin 


J. E. Smothers 


C. B. 


Sloop 


22.10 


20.00 


Fatinitza 


F. Xorwood 


C. B. 


Sloop 


21.05 


20.00 


Kate 


J. 3IcLoughlin 


Keel 


Sloop 


19.10 


19.01 


Marguerite 


J. McLaughlin 


C. B. 


Sloop 


18.06 


18.02 


Hestia 


W. Dennen 


C. B. 


Sloop 


20.03 


17.09 


Jennie C. 


H. A. Lane 


C. B. 


Cat 


18.03 


16.07 


Sassaeus 


B. Griffin 


C. B. 


Sloop 


18.05 


16.03 


Spark 


F. H. Gatfney 


C. B. 


Sloop 


20.00 


16.02 


Two Brothers 


Higgins & GifFord 


C. B. 


Cat 


16.04 


15.06 



This Club has about sixty members and twenty-five yachts, 
and is quite a healthy organization. The Club was organized 
July 28, 1880, and the following are its officers for 1885 : 

Commodore^ Bennett Griffin ; Vice Cofnmodore, Frank H. Gaff- 
ney ; Treasurer, Frank E. Smothers ; Secretary a?td Measurer, 
H. Frank Sanford/ Fleet Captain, John F. Bickford; Trustees, 
Bennett Griffin, Frank H. Gaffney, William McKenzie. 



II— ft WHEEL ^UI^ 11^ 7S. 



XOTE.— The following- sketch of a run made by the author in the early days 
of bicycling-, was written for the columns of a juvenile weekly, and first ai> 
peared in the winter of 1879. I give it place here as of more or less interest, 
with a few slight alterations. 

The City Hall clock was just pointing to eight, on as fine 
a morning as one could wish to enjoy a bicycle spin, and the 
roads looked their very best after the slight rain-fall of the even- 
ing before, as the writer and a companion, "Tommy," made 
their first vault upon their respective " pig-skins," preparatory 
to a run of forty miles, and a day's enjoyment. My machine 
was a Pope "Columbia" of the Excelsior pattern, and was the 
first bicycle introduced into this city; it was half-nickle plated, 
and measured fifty-two inches across its forward wheel ; it had 
been my pride for many weeks, and I was warmly attached to 
it — in fact, I often remarked that five hundred dollars would not 
tempt me to part with my "wheel," were another machine unob- 
tainable. The saddle was a " patent suspension " a pear-shaped 
piece of cast iron, hollowed out, and covered with a tightly- 
drawn piece of " pig-skin," and was the easiest in use. Attached 
to the rear of the machine, and just beneath the projecting end 
of the saddle, was a small leathern bag, containing our sundries 
— oil can, wrench, key, chain, rag, etc. 



84 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

My companion bestrode a similar patterned machine, though 
of smaller size. Tommy was a splendid rider, and one I always 
watched with envy — he could make his fifty miles and scarcely 
show the cost in the way of " wind." 

Well, all this time we have been gliding along " in our noise- 
less flight," with the town of Beverly, our destination, fourteen 
miles ahead. We kept up a spirited conversation, and now and 
then attempted the "fancy" on the broad and well trodden 
track. But here we are at the summit of a long hill, with a 
descent before us, foretelling lively riding, and ere I think we 
are already upon its surface, and like the wind itself go tearing 
down the irregular course. Such fun, boys ! Get a bicycle, by 
all means — my word for it, you will nev^er regret its purchase. 
Continuing on over level ground, up and down steep ascents 
and falling grades, taking the sidewalk here and there, we finally 
reach Manchester, one hour from the start, and seven miles on 
our journey. 

At Manchester we carefully oil our machines, give them the 
customary " shake," to see if " all is well," and then again secure 
our balance and resume the ride. 

Good roads are found all along our route from this place, 
save a short and gravelly hill as we enter Beverly Farms. I was 
in advance of Tommy as we were nearing this hill, and intend- 
ing to ride to the top, glanced back over my shoulder to look 
for my companion, when my wheel struck a great mound of loose 
gravel, and over I went to the ground. 

We had a most delightful run through Beverly Farms. Here 
we found an unusually fine road, and over it we rapidly wheeled 
to Pride's Crossing, where again we tested the racing qualities 
of our slender wheels to the fullest extent. I held the advance 
for about a quarter of a mile, then Tommy overtook and passed 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 85 

me like a flash, and in a few minutes I was a considerable dis- 
tance in the rear. 

Just as I was about to whistle to my companion, I noticed 
him suddenly spring to the ground and allow his bicycle to fall 
over with him, and the next instant I saw coming around the 
bend and directly in my path, a runaway horse attached to a bas- 
ket phaeton, in which latter two elderly gentlemen were seated. 
On came the affrighted animal, till he caught sight of me as 
I still sat upon my machine and continued my silent advance, 
then, apparently taking me for an apparition, sprang with for-' 
ward feet upon the high stone wall running along the highway, 
and came to a stop, his entire body covered with a thick white 
foam. I at once dismounted and went to the assistance of the 
occupants of the carriage, saying as I approached : 
" Any damage ? " 

I received no answer to this, and after waiting a while spoke 
again : 

" Anything I can do for you ? " 

At last I seemed to have been heard, for the gentleman whom 
I saw had been driving, turned to me and said : 

" Young man, why do you desecrate the Sabbath by riding 
such a machine t " 

I had forgotten to tell you, boys, that this trip was being made 
on Sunday. Now I don't say but what I might have selected 
a day just as well suited to the occasion, but it's awful hard to 
allow a fine Sunday to pass and not take a little ramble with 
your bicycle, if you are so fortunate as to own one. 

I told the gentleman, in reply to his question, that I did not 
quite understand him. 

" I should think six days enough to take out of the week for 



86 IN AND AROUND CAFE ANN. 

practicing upon a bicycle, without calling upon the seventh," 
he continued, apparently shocked at my seeming ignorance. 

"Well, then," said I, boldly, "why do you take your carriage 
out to-day — for pleasure ? Exactly." 

This remark settled it quickly. The gentleman (?) did not 
even look at me, but gathered up the reins, spoke a word to the 
now quieted horse, and started off down the road, and I saucily 
sent a parting " Good-day, sir ! " after him. 

I walked with my machine to where Tommy sat awaiting me, 
from whence he had witnessed the whole affair, and together we 
had a most hearty laugh over the matter. "Of all 'nerve,'" 
said my companion, "I never saw the like of that"; and I 
agreed with him. Well, thank goodness, the wheelman does 
not meet with many such characters ; on the contrary, most peo- 
ple, especially those of an observing nature, seem to enjoy the 
o-raceful movements of the slender wheel as much as the rider 

o 

himself. 

Well, once more astride the rubber-tired wheel, we continue 
our trip and soon arrive in the town of Beverly. At this place, 
beneath the shade of an inviting looking maple, we take a rest 
of perhaps thirty minutes, and enjoy our cigarettes ; then a care- 
ful examination of our machines is made — a nut adjusted here 
and there, and the saddle moved slightly to the front — after 
which the remount is taken for an eight-mile run to Wenham, 
Hamilton, and the Chebacco Lakes. This run was the poorest 
of the entire trip, all hills and a road surface of deep gravel — 
two very disagreeable items the bicycler always expects to meet. 
We did not dismount but once, however, and this occurred at the 
junction of the roads leading to Hamilton, Beverly and Man- 
chester. We found a nice road running alongside the Pond — a 
good hard surface with several highly enjoyable coasts, away to 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 87 

the Chebacco Pond hotel — and on this we made up our lost 
time. We were just one hour in making the distance from Bev- 
erly, and considering the state of the roads it was very good 
time indeed. 

Well, now, we did enjoy that dinner at Whipple's ! What an 
appetite we did have as we sat down to that well-spread table, 
A single chicken we made nothing of— you should have seen the 
way we tucked the cream toast, squash pie, cake, fruits, nuts 
and candy out of sight. 

I was beginning to feel "dubious " about getting home, when 
Tommy called my attention to the fact that it was five o'clock, 
and knowing a long run awaited us, we finished supper and went 
out doors to prepare for our long ride home. At precisely 5.55 
P. M. we left the Chebacco House and headed for Beverly 
Farms, and the long home stretch of about twenty miles, and at 
eight o'clock reached Gloucester safely, well satisfied with our 
first long-distance run upon the bicycle. 




Ill— WHBELUlftl] inSITO^g 11^ PftST YBftI(g. 



From the time of the first appearance of the rubber-tired 
wheel in America until the present year, the trip along the north 
shore to Gloucester, Massachusetts, has been considered one 
of the most enjoyable wheel-runs in all New England. The first 
visit of the bicycle to Gloucester was in the early part of the 
year 1878. The writer well remembers the curious crowd of 
lookers-on that surrounded the pioneer wheelman as the dis- 
mount was made on the main thoroughfare of the town ; even 
now the many questions and exclamations of the wonder-struck 
populace can be recalled to mind, as they gazed with mouth 
agape upon the slender two-wheeled team. The rider came 
from Cambridge, Mass., and made the trip in three and a quar- 
ter hours ; the machine was a 54-inch English make affair, and 
was a heavy, clumsy-looking wheel in comparison with the beau- 
tiful models of to-day. The wheelman made the return journey 
by train. 

Messrs. Paul Butler and Willis Farrington, both of Lowell, 
Mass., (who with four others founded the Boston Bicycle Club 
in February of this year) were among the early visitors to this 
city, on wheels ; their favorite run being to Gloucester, thence 
to Ipswich and Newburyport, and along the wooded roads 
of Essex county. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 89 

The first notable event was the visit of the 

WALTHAM BICYCLE CLUB, AUGUST, 1880. 

This party consisted of four wheelmen, namely — C. W. Sew- 
all, Captain ; Fred. E. Draper, Sec'y ; W. W. Stall and Lewis 
Damareau. A cordial reception was tendered the visitors by 
Messrs. C. S. Nauss, Lewis Fewkes (both members of the club, 
then on a visit to the city), A. F. Dodd and the writer. It was 
exactly 9.30 in the evening when the 'cyclists were met at the 
Cut bridge, and the moon was shining brightly. The visitors 
were conducted to the residence of Mr. Nauss on Marchant 
street, where a most appetizing fish chowder was partaken of, 
after which the ride was continued to the store of A. F. Dodd 
on Main street, where the final dismount was made and the 
machines stabled. Sunday was pleasantly passed by the visit- 
ing 'cyclists in a trip down the harbor to Eastern Point, through 
the courtesy of Mr. Dodd. The return trip was begun at 4.30 
P. M., on Main street, before a large crowd of lookers-on, and 
the visitors left for their long run, well pleased with their first visit 
to this city. Stall rode a 58-inch wheel and Sewall a 46-inch. 

MASSACHUSETTS BICYCLE CLUB, SEPT. 1 5, 1880. 

Messrs. C. A. Hazlett (Rockingham Bi. Club, Portsmouth, 
N. H.), E. W. Pope (Capt. Mass. Bi. Club, Boston), and A. J. 
Philbrick (Salem), visited Gloucester Sept. ii, 1880, for the 
purpose of making arrangements for a three days' run of the 
Massachusetts Bicycle Club, and on Sept. 15 this Club came to 
town and passed the night at the Pavilion Hotel. In this party 
were the following well-known wheelmen : E. W. Pope, H. E. 
Parkhurst, A. F. Webster (Massachusetts Club, Boston) ; J. M. 
Baines and Thomas Earll (Worcester Bi. Club) ; S. T. Cook and 



90 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 



C. White (Baltimore, Md., Club) ; Capt. C. K. Munroe (N. Y. 
Bi. Club) ; W. F. GuUen (Brooklyn Bi. Club) ; C. A. Hazlett and 
A. H. Jenness (Rockingham Club, Portsmouth, N. H.) ; W. D. 
Wilmot (the great fancy rider — this was his first long ride, and 
he then belonged to the Framingham Club) ; J. G. Dalton (Bos- 
ton Bi. Club) ; and Messrs. W. E. Parmenter, Jr., and George 

E. Riley. The party were met at Magnolia by local riders, A. 

F. Dodd and the writer, and escorted to the hotel. In the early 
morning the wheelmen were photographed at the Pavilion by 
W. A. Elwell, and at 7.15 the party left via Essex for the journ- 
ney home. 

Messrs. Hazlett and Pope, with Capt. Williams and W. S. 
Slocum, again visited town Sept. 15 of the next year, and on the 
i8th of the same month the former, with President Frank J. 
Philbrick of the Rockingham Club, made the run from Nashua, 
N. H., to this city, each time passing the night at the Pavilion 
hotel. 

THE BOSTON BICYCLE CLUB, JULY, 1881, 

made a trip to this city via steamer " Admiral," and were met 
at the wharf by local wheelmen C. F. Wonson and the writer, 
and escorted to the Pavilion, where the night was passed. The 
party numbered fourteen wheelmen, including Frank W. Weston 
(Chief Consul U. S. A. of the C.T. C.) and Mr. Louis R. Harri- 
son, then late editor of the Bicycling World. On Sunday morn- 
ing the trip home was begun on wheels, local riders accompany- 
ing the visitors as far as Magnolia. One of the party (now a 
prominent official in one of the leading 'cycle clubs at the Hub) 
had the good fortune to make the acquaintance of a dark-eyed 
damsel of the town, and deserted his party for a carriage drive 
in her company, to a well-spread dinner table at the Chebacco 
Lakes. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 91 

MASSACHUSETTS BICYCLE CLUB, OCT. 26-27, 1 88 1, 

again made the trip to this city. Local riders welcomed the 
visitors at Magnolia and escorted them to the L. A. W. head- 
quarters of the town — Gloucester Hotel (then Atlantic House). 
This party consisted of the following : H. H. Williams, Cap- 
tain ; H. L. Sanborn, Color Bearer; G. W. Metcalf, Bugler; 
Aug. F. Webster, M. H. Hardwick, Dr. H. A. Boker, S. T. Par- 
ker, L. M. Dorr, H. E. Parkhurst, J. T. Dyer, A. J. Philbrick, 
Samuel Kidder, Albert S. Parsons, W. R. Griffiths (all of Mass- 
achusetts Club) ; Fred. S. Pratt and Waldo Lincoln (Worcester 
Club) ; L. R. Harrison, J. G. Dalton and C. W\ Fourdrinier (Bos- 
ton Club) ; Frank J. Philbrick (Rockingham Club, Portsmouth, 
N. H.) ; W. T. Gilman, (Nashua Club). The evening was very 
pleasantly passed in the parlor of the hotel, Mr. Parkhurst enter- 
taining the company with selections on the piano. Mr. H. A. 
Burnham, the Herald man of the town, also did considerable 
toward making the evening one of much enjoyment to the visit- 
ing wheelmen. The ride back next morning was by the way 
of Essex, North Beverly and Middlesex Fells to Boston, and the 
distance covered in the two days' run was one hundred and 
three miles. 

STAR BICYCLE CLUB, LYNN, MAY, 1 882, 

came to Gloucester with seven members, viz. : Frank S. Win- 
ship, J. Horace Pope, Walter O. Faulkner, Will C. Stewart, \\\ 
E. Smith, Frank Goodwin and William Pevear, and put up at 
the L. A. W. hotel. The day was warm and sunny, and the 
roads were in fine condition. A very clever performance was 
the feat of riding up Sawyer's hill at the Cove, by one of the 
wheelmen of the Star Club ; this was the first time the hill had 



92 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

been ridden on a bicycle, and was considered a most difficult 
undertaking. Since this year (1882) the road surface of the hill 
has been somewhat improved, and now the task is comparatively 
easy for the wheelman to make a successful mount. 

In the month of August, 1882, Messrs. W. B. Everett, J. F. 
Souther, George W. Page and E. Westcott, took a flying trip on 
wheels to this city and passed the night, returning next day 
to Boston. 

RAMBLERS BICYCLE CLUB, BOSTON, JUNE, 1883. 

Probably the greatest event in the annals of the bicycling his- 
tory of Gloucester was the visit of the Ramblers Club, of Bos- 
ton, in their two-days' run from that city, June 17, 18, 1883. -This 
party numbered twenty-nine wheelmen, and was the largest tour- 
ing body to visit this city. Henry Parsons of this city, and the 
writer met the 'cyclists at Salem, and came over the road from 
that place with the visitors, putting up here at the L. A. W. 
hotel. The Hawthorne Club of Salem, under command of 
Capt. Philbrick, did escort duty to Manchester, and then the 
Gloucester wheelmen assumed that post and brought the tour- 
ists into the town. Next morning the 'cyclists visited Bass 
Rocks at East Gloucester, and were greatly pleased with the 
locality; a couple of hours were here passed, during which 
a fine photograph of the wheelmen was taken by Adams, of 
Gloucester, and then the visitors returned to the hotel. Several 
of the party left at 12 o'clock, returning via wheel to Salem, and 
the rest took the 1.30 P. M. train. The following were the 
members on the entire trip : H. R. Reed, C. S. Howard, W. 
P. Haskell, Albert L. Flocken, W. I. Harris, A. D. Peck, Jr., 
W. S. Locke, J. W. Wattles, Jr., H. M. Smith, A. W. Fisher, F. 
E. Bryant, Elmer G. Whitney, W. E. Webber (Ramblers) ; Fred. 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 93 

A. Bickford, J. D. Bullard, Fred. C. Fitz and W. M. Welch (all 
of Somerville Bicycle Club); J. L. Blackmer (Roxbury Club); 
J. J. Gilligan (Massachusetts Club) ; E. E. Gage (Hyde Park) ; 
E. P.J. Morton (Melrose); F. A. Hill, J. C. Freeman, Elias 
Ahuja, W. B. Dyer and F. P. Martin (unattached) ; P. H. Shir- 
ley (Marblehead Club) ; F. A. Woodman and R. T. Farnum 
(Chelsea Bi. Club). 



On Sunday, July 21, 1883, Messrs. E. P. J. Morton and J. J. 
Gilligan, in company with the writer, made the run from Glouc- 
ester to Chebacco Pond, and partook of a Whipple dinner of 
broiled chickens. 

August 12, 1883, Messrs. John Z. Rogers, F. W. Farnham, 
Wm. M. Foster and T. L. Scafiall, were the wheelmen visitors. 

August 18, 1883, Herbert M. Smith, George E. Hutchinson, 
George E. Butterfield, Willard E. Butterfield, Joseph L. Pearson 
and M. L. Collins were the arrivals on wheels. 

Sept. 6, 1883, E. H. Gilman (Nashua, N. H.), William F. Ford 
(Boston, Mass.), J. W. DeWolf (Cambridge) and Frank C. Hoyt 
Springfield, Mass.), came to town from Newton, Mass., on 
wheels ; next morning DeWolf wheeled to Cambridge and the 
two former to Nashua, N. H. J. Fred. Adams of Haverhill also 
paid a flying visit to Gloucester the same week, making the dis- 
tance of twenty-eight miles in three hours. 

Sept. 22, 1883. The visitors this day included a delegation 
from the now well-known Charlestown Club, under command 
of the genial Captain, Charles W. Howard— F. A. Parshley, J. 
W. Vivian, F. S. Nelson, J. A. Webber, W. H. Davis, Arthur R. 
Smith, Frank S. Mason and Cliff. M. Bean. This party had 



94 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

a most enjoyable time and kept the city wide-awake during their 
visit. 

October 6, 1883, representatives of the East Boston Club were 
entertained, viz : John C. Soutter, William C. Moore, F. H. 
Brewster, Thomas C. Coleman, T. H. Kingston, J. L. Blackman 
and Herman Reed. 

October 13, 1883, H. M. Smith and W. E. Webber of the 
Ramblers Club, Boston. 

November 18, 1883, C. W. Howard and J. W. Vivian of the 
Charlestown Club, and 

November 17, 1883, E. G. Whitney (Ramblers), F. \. Wood- 
man, and G. H. Danforth (Chelsea Club), completed the list of 
visiting wheelmen for 1S83. 

During the year 1884 Messrs. E. P. J. Morton and J. J. Gilli- 
gan were frequent visitors to Gloucester, and later, Messrs. 
Woodman and Danforth of Chelsea passed a whole fortnight in 
pleasing wheel-runs in this city. Benj. F, Eddy of Melrose was 
an occasional visitor this year, and indulged in many of the 
enjoyable trips upon the Cape. 

October, 1884, the Charlestown Club again organized one of 
their pleasing tours to Cape Ann ; this time over thirty wheel- 
men participated in the run, representing clubs from Cambridge, 
Charlestown, East Boston, Chelsea and Wakefield. The party 
came to town of a Saturday night by train and boat, and quar- 
tered at the Gloucester Hotel. During the evening the Elliott 
Rink was visited, and here the wheelmen tendered a most cor- 
dial reception to Dan Canary, the trick rider, who at that time 
was fulfilling an engagement with the Girard & Yokes Combina- 
tion. A " Kangaroo " wheel was introduced to the Gloucester 
people by this party, and its rider, Mr. William E. Webber, gave 
an excellent exhibition of skilful riding at the skating rink. The 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN. 



95 



party left at 9.30 in the morning, and were accompanied as far 
as Pride's Crossing, by the writer. The "headers " were quite 
numerous on the trip, and one rider wrenched his machine badly 
in descending Sawyer's hill. 

The writer timed Still. Whittaker here, this month, on his one- 
hundred mile run. Whittaker made remarkably fast time on 
this run, and broke the previous record. He left Harvard 
square in Cambridge at 7 A. M., and rode to Wellesley and re- 
turn (22 miles), thence to Salem and return (62 miles), thence 
to Gloucester (99 miles), reaching this city at 3.50 P. M. Some 
one suggested that he had hardly covered the one hundred miles, 
and to fully satisfy the party, and more probably himself, Whit- 
taker rode out to the schoolhouse on the Manchester road (i3/^ 
miles) and returned to the Gloucester Hotel at exactly 4 P. M,, 
giving him a full one hundred miles, with one and a-half to 
spare. Whittaker looked fairly well, and no doubt could have 
returned to Cambridge on the wheel had he been so disposed. 
He left on the 5.08 P. M. train, after sending a telegram to the 
Club house at Harvard square. 

E. P. J. Morton (Mass. Bi. Club), F. A. Woodman and G. H. 
Danforth (Chelsea) were among the first arrivals the present 
year. April 25 was the date, and the wheelmen were obliged 
to pass the entire next day in-doors on account of a heavy rain, 
and returned on Monday morning via 6.20 train. 

May 16, :\Iessrs. L. F. Frost and F. A. Woodman of Chelsea 
were here for the night, and returned next morning on the wheel. 

May 30, a large party visited town, including the following : 
A. J. Rogers, William Bell, T. C. Coleman, Ralph Hahn, Charles 
E. Little, F. H. Brewster, William C. Moore, C. G. Schwan, F. 
J. Libbee, C. C. Curin and E. Kingston (Maverick Wheel Club, 
East Boston) ; J. H. Aubin, P. L. Aubin, W. G. Clark, A. A. 



96 IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 

Glimes, F. L. Tainter, W. E. Wentworth (Newton) ; R. G. Beaz- 
ley (Boston) ; E. Frost, R. H. Loud, B. W. Hobbs, A. D. Guver, 
W. Jordan, George S. Webster (East Boston) ; George A. Minott 
and W. W. Merrick (Lynn) ; and J. R. Harmer (East Hartford). 
A disagreeable rain-storm kept the party in town the following 
day, and the home trip was made next morning by the early 
train. 

June 14, another delegation passed the night in this city, as 
follows : W. W. White, F. Arthur Lane, J. W. Vivian (Charles- 
town Club) ; G. H. Danforth, F. A. Woodman (Chelsea) ; H. S. 
Worthen (Capt.), W. R. Maxwell (V. Pres.), G. F. Steele (Sec), 
Eugene Sanger (ist Lieut.), E. Ames (Somerville Cycle Club); 
Benj. F. Eddy, and E. P. J. Morton — the former of Melrose and 
the latter a Massachusetts Club man. The following day (Sun- 
day), Messrs. Lane, Danforth, Woodman, Eddy and Morton, 
under the guidance of the writer, took the famous " Wheel around 
the Cape." The day was fine, though the wheelmen had a stiff 
breeze to ride against on the last eight or ten miles. E. P. J. 
Morton was the only man in the party to ride up Great Hill, and 
especial mention is due that gentleman for his very clever per- 
formance. 

July 4, a party of twenty-eight, representing the East Boston, 
Newton and Charlestown Clubs, were in town over night, most 
of the visitors coming via the Boston & Gloucester steamer in 
the afternoon. And here our record closes for the year. 

In the foregoing I have not attempted to give a complete list 
of the visiting wheelmen in the several years — simply selected 
the most prominent parties, and important club runs, for the 
sake of having a convenient list for future reference — hence 
those of the wheelmen tourists who fail to find their names in 
the preceding pages, will kindly understand that the omission 



IN AND AROUND CAPE ANN 



97 



was not in any way on account of their not being worthy honor- 
able mention, but from the fact that want of space alone pre- 
vented their publication. 



ESTABL.ISHKD 1831. 



Parsons Brothers 
S hoe S tore, 

8 1 Main St., Gloucester, Mass. 



REPAIRING PROMPTLY DONE. 



M. L. W^ETHERELL, 
Druggist, Apothecary and Chemist, 

Ko. ifS ,AIair| 0t., : : G^louce^tei', >Ikf«f^. 



Twenty-eight years of practical experience as a Dispensing Druggist 
and two years as a Medical Student, give me such a knowledge of Ma- 
teria Medica that the public can be assured that the 

Compounding of Physicians' Prescriptions 

is a specialty in my establishment. None but Trusty 2(.x\.di Experienced 
assistants employed, and I claim superior quality of materials used and 
the skill and accuracy with which my preparations are manufactured. 
So whenever joii have Famih* Receipts or Physicians' Prescriptions 
that you desire to have accurately compounded and according to art, 
be sure that you take them to M. L. Wetherell's, opposite Post Office 
and Custom House. Yours truly, 

M. L. WETHERELL. 




Charles J. Gray, 



AGENT FOR 



Columbia Bicycles 

And TricycleSj 

And Dealer in all kinds of BICY- 
CLE SUNDRIES. 

Gu-ns, Ammu-nition, 

AND SPORTING GOODS. 

Gray's Gun Store, : : : 227 Main St., 

Glo-ucester, IS/Iass. 

Cunningham & Thompson, 

Curers, Inspectors, 
And Wholesale Dealers in 

Salt Water Fish, 

GLOUCESTER, MASS. 
S. Cunningham. W. Thompson. 



Procter Brothers, 

PRINTERS, PUBLISHERS, 

Booksellers and Stationers, 

And Dealers in Blank Books, Paper Hangings, Window Shades, 

Fixtures, Pocket Knives, Wallets, Fancy Goods, 

Musical Intruments, etc. 

Editors and Proprietors of the Cape Ann Advertiser, 

Devoted to the Fishery Interests and Local News 
of Cape Ann. 

108 Si 110 Main Street (Procter Building), Gloucester, Mass, 

Francis Procter. George H. Procter. 

Establistied 1849. 

JOHN PEW & SON, 

Producers and Wholesale Dealers in 

FISH. 

Importers of SALT, 

Glouckster, rviAss. 



John Pew. Ohas. H. Pew. John J. Pew, John K. Dustin, Jr. 



FRED. W. TIBBETS, 

Watchmaker and Jeweler, 

102 MAIN ST., GLOUCESTER. 



We are constantly receiving the Latest J\^ovelties in 
Gold and Silver Jewelry, Watches, Clocks and Bronzes, 
Sterling Silver and Silver Plate, which you are cor- 
dially invited to inspect. 

In Optical Goods we can show the most complete as- 
sortment in Essex County. 

Our facilities for Fine Watch, Cloch and Jewelry Re- 
pairing are unsurpassed, and our prices always the 
lowest. 

We shall he pleased to have you mahe our store your 
headquarters when in Gloucester, and it shall he our 
aim to carry only reliahle goods which shall he guar- 
anteed as represented. 



HIQGIIsrS & aiE^FORD, 




Boat and Yacht Manufacturers. 

GLOUCESTER. MASS. 



Have had thirty-two years' experience in the business, and during 
the last fourteen years in Gloucester have manufactured over three 
thousand boats, over one hundred furnished for the U. S. Government. 

We also built the three smallest craft that ever crossed the Atlantic 
ocean. 

We are the designers and builders of the j^achts Sassacus, Thorn, 
Thistle, Cora, Louette. Petrel, and many others. 

ORDERS RECEIVED during the Summer and Fall to be DELIV- 
ERED the following season. 

We would be pleased to give estimates and correspond with any in 
want of Boats. l-Ve can furnish any amount of Testimonials. 

A Fe^v Leading Articles 

WHICH WE OF^KER 

-^^t "^;77"]:iolesale and. iT^etail: 

Apples, Ucof (salt), Butter, Beans, Beets. Baled Hay, 

Baled Straw, Bean Pots, Bushel Baskets, 2-Bushei Baskets, 
Buoy JJnes, Cheese, Crockery (all kinds), Condensed INIilk, 
Corn and Oats, Caudles, Crackers, Cabbage, Canned Goods, . 
Coffee, Confectionery, Cheap Lanterns, Dried Apples, Deep Plates, 
Eggs, Empty Hogsheads, Flour, Fruit of all kinds, Fresh Meats, 
Fish, Fisli Forks, Fisli Knives, Fishing Lines, Figs, Fuse, 
Graham Flour, Hardware, Hooks, Hams, Hay Forks, Kerosene Oil, 
Knives and Forks, Lard, Lard Oil, Lamp Chimneys. Lamp Wicks, 
Lamp Tops, Lantern Tops, Lemons, Meal, Molasses, Nails. Xuts, 
Onions. Oranges, Potatoes, Pigs' Feet, Pork, Pickles, Pails, Peas, 
Powder, Pilot Bread, Poultry, Rye Flour, Raisins, Rosin Paper, 
Spices, Starches, Sugars, Soaps, Soused Tripe, Salt, Sperm Oil, 
Stone Jugs, Stone Pots, Shovels, Sheet and Lead Pipe, Shot, 
Spoons. Tea, Tobacco, Tubular Lanterns, Tarred Paper, Turnips, 
Vessel Tinware, Vessel Pumps, AVooden Ware, Yellow Xappies. 
Yellow and White Mugs, Y'east Cakes, Y'east Powders, Zinc, &c., &c. 

B. HASKELL & SONS (3 Stores), Main St., Gloucester. 



ARTHUR McARTHUR & CO., 



-DEALERS IX- 



Parlor and Chamber Furniture, 

VELVET, BRUSSELS, TAPESTRY AND WOOLEN 

-=CARPETS,=- 

OIL CLOTH, STRAW MATTING, &c. 

CROCKERY AND GLASSWARE, 
STOVES and RANGES of Every Description. 

— OUR STOCK OF — 

Library, Dining Room and Kitchen Furniture 

Has been selected with great care in regard to Durability 
as well as Ornamentation. 

5— A KULL LIKE OK— ^S 

REFRIGERATORS, ICE CLOSETS, &C.. 

Constantly on hand. 



''e wish to call the particular attention of Summer Visitors 
to our large and complete stock of RA^TTA^N. and "WI^LQ'W 
"WAit©'^ for Sea-side use. 

COURTEOUS CLERKS. - PROMPT DELIVERY. 

NOS. 16 & 18 CORNHILL, BOSTOX. 

203 MAIN STREET, (Ferguson Block,) GLOUCESTER. 



DAVID M. HILTON, 

TEAMING & BOARDING STABLE, 

- -STEVEDORE," - 

AND ALL KINDS of HEAVY or LIGHT TRUCKING 
and TEAM WORK. 

Particular attention given to Moving Furniture Long or 
Short Distances. All orders entrusted to me will be prompt- 
h- and faithfully attended to. 

- ' OKKICES: = = 

152 MAIN STREET, & PEARCE. COR. MAIN STREET, 

GLOUCESTER. 

Gloucester Hotel, 

HEADQUARTERS FOR THE 
L. A. W. and C. T. C, 



At Gloucester^ Mass. 



GEORGE L. SMITH, Proprietor. 



Special Rates IM^ade to AV^lieelmen. 



CHAELES L. HOVEY. 



13 Avon St., Boston, 

CLUB TAILOR TO THE MASSACHUSETTS 
AND BOSTON CLUBS FOR 

In every style, made from the best English 
Serges and Cassimeres. 

A full assortment of FOREIGN and DOMESTIC WOOI.E^S 
always on hand for Gentlemen's Fine Wear, at moderate prices. 



THE "HUB" WRAPS AND DRAWERS 




(Paf. Aug. 8, 1871), 

Have mauy superior advautages over all others. Let- 
ter F, in cut, shows the rntented Suspensory Gore, 
which prevents chafing-, and removes all disagreeable 
points, such as seams, extra cloth, and tightening over 
the knee; it removes the unpleasant feeling experi- 
enced in all others, both foreign and domestic, and are 
indispensable for large men that appreciate comfort. 
Also, the wrap opening in front gives it a superioritv 
of adjustment; as it fits loosely, it remains in positioii 
and is not so oppressive in waVm weather as the light 
weights of mei-ino fabric (and for winter wear has a 
chest protector attacheil, which prevents, colds, neu- 
ralgia, &c.), as thousands will testily to their great 
value. 

Tourists' Shirts, Lawn Tennis and Base Ball Suits, 
from material made to my special order, in new de- 
signs ; also, a full line of Foreign Flannels. Those 
wishing to order by mail, send tailor's measure of 
Pants and Coat. Custom Shirts, hand made, easy 
and perfect fitting, with a full line of Coloreil, Cre- 
tonne, Madras and Penang, lor street wear. Embroi- 
dered, Hemstitched and French Fine Plait Bosoms, 
hand made, with a Collar and Cull" attached, for Partv 
and Full Dress, a specialty. 

**HVB» Shirt Emporium, 383 WnHhin(jton 
St. (opp. Franklin). 1. A. HUWK, Boston. Mass. 



Bicycles, 
seiid Tricycles, 

for free SOClaWeS, 

Illustrated SafetlSS, 



Catalogue. 



Tandems. 




S'uKjer^s Velocitnan, 



W. B.EVERETT & CO. 

Sole U. S. Agents, 

3>Tos- © cSs S DBerls:ele3r Street, 

BOSTON. 



More than One-Half 

Of the Bicycles in the 
recent parade of 

League of American Wheelmen 

At Buffalo, N. Y., were 



ONE-HALF 



Of the Bicycles ridden 

to the finish on 

the recent 



Expert ColuniMas,|Big 4 Tour, 



And a proportion of the balance 

were of the other styles of 

Columbia Bicycies. 



At every League Meet the CO- 
LUMBIA^ BICYCLES have been 
in the majority. 



WERE 



COLUMBIAS 



ONLY 1 PER CENT. 

Of wheelmen are Racing Men. 

Q9 PER CENT. 

Ride on the Roads. 

When about to Purchase 
a Machine, 



Choose that which has the Best 
Reputation for Ail-Around Use ; 
which seldom needs Repairing; 
which is thoroughly Staunch and 
Reliable for Long-Distance Tours. 



For Seven Years 

The Oldest and Best Riders have 

ridden at Meets and 

Tours, 

Columbia Bicycles. 



Illustrated Catalogue sent Free. 

The Pope Mfg. Co., 

597 Washington St., - Boston. 

Branch Houses : 12 Warren St.. 
New York; 115 Wabash av., Chi- 
cago. 



X 



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